The hole in the actuator rod needs to be adjusted half way before the pin on the flapper arm so you then have to pull the rod against the spring to get it on the rod.
This sets a preload on the spring a bit like shimming a CT26.
If you set it to 0 it will be laggy as the gate will blow...
Normally I give an engine 4>5 full heat cycles then do a retorque, in TRSM sequence I back crack the bolt/nut (pull back on a breaker bar the stiction will release with a sharp "crack" but go no further) then pull it back to the final spec and repeat 13 more times.
The 7m is a 0 balance engine meaning you get the reciprocating assembly balanced as a unit ie: Crank, Rods, Pistons then the Flywheel, Clutch, Damper can be done on their own.
A lot of engines use an offset mass on the flywheel and Damper as part of the crank bobweighting.
You can only go 10/10 before the crank needs to be rehardened and at that stage it gets very pricey.
If you haven't changed any of the reciprocating parts ie: rods/pistons you can get away with the factory balance, personally I always balance my engines no matter what.
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