It's not always easy to find but it's sold in many places branded as "HondaBond" "YamaBond" "SuziBond" and so on so if you have a Bike dealership handy it's an alternative source.
If you don't have the means to measure temp changes along/across the block I'd leave them alone you could do more harm than good.
Same reason I don't support the mod that drills the hole at the back of the head that's blank, I don't "know" what the net effect is and have never seen any data...
If you have some way to safely support the Car and then the engine it'll be much easier to drop the subframe than pull the engine with the nightmare of broken clips/hoses/wiring that follows...
You do however need to get it all spotlessly clean before you reseal the new Pan, I use 3bond...
Clean/degrease then Loctite the stud in using the Loctite Primer on all surfaces, let cure for a couple of days and you might get away with it.
I'll have a look at my Head section later but I don't recall there being water that close....
Simple fact that all Oil T-stats are 90/10 designs mean that even if it fails it's not a show stopper like a coolant T-stat.
Pressure based system is cheaper to produce, don't kid yourselves that there's any other reason they went that way, save $1 per car over it's model life in a couple of...
Only time my car ever used oil was when I messed around with decell ignition cut in the MoTeC and the thin rings didn't like it, apart from that not a drop so I'm a 10%er ;)
All it takes is one bad rattle/detonation to destroy the composite HG so personally with the higher comp inadequate engine controls (assuming some sort of piggyback) I'd go for a 2mm Cometic installed correctly.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.