Just done to make a shorter overall engine Dave, 400CI SBC's did it to squeeze the bigger bores into the same length but suffered a lot of cooling issues. (side benefit is a much stronger block torsionally)
Chev had to add a LOT of up and overs to keep cylinder temps sort of even.
No no not open deck/closed deck the bores are actually all interconnected so there is no coolant flow around individual cylinders, everything goes up and over.
I'd just source another head, welding it is a bit sketchy at best as most of these heads are annealed/soft from being 20 years old so you'll just be wasting $$$...
Don't know if you get much of a Choice, personally I went factory but if it ever needs replacing I'll get it sleeved in SS and put a kit through it that way it'll never rust/corrode again.
Don't need to take it off just loosen the nuts and crack the gasket a bit, if it's wet inside you'll see it.
(have some water handy to flush any leaked fluids off the bay paint)
Crack the Master Cylinder nuts loose where it bolts up to the Booster and break the master loose and see if anything comes out.
The pedal height retention test you just performed indicates the seals are sad but not at the point where it's leaking badly yet.
Is this an ABS car?
Car off pump the pedal 5>6 times to exhaust the brake booster
Hold firm pressure on the pedal and see if it creeps to the floor over time.
report back here.
"Pedal Height Retention Test"
It's a bit like an ATM Machine ;)
FOD= Foreign Object Damage ie: Sucked something into the Compressor or spat out part of the engine into the Turbine Wheel.
The Thrust is usually a Brass looking plate with a machined section in the middle that sets the end play of the Turbo Wheels/shaft.
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