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Wasn't me I always ran 2... (with a failsafe) Also don't think a low comp 3.0L in a 1500+ Kg car is the smartest of moves if it's not running a PD Blower....

Moi??? :: licking the side of your face :: :p (nice car HD thanks for posting the pic)

One of the Elders over on CS Forum has a LOT of information on doing this and was developing a kit, might be worth a wander over there to see if anything came of it.

Welcome Sarah, I'll resist the urge to mention melons ;)

It was a serious question and not argumentive at all.... You have a heavy car that isn't ever going to be fast with a 3.0L NA engine, ITB's are doable but bang for $ a very poor choice. An NA/T 2JGE makes a lot of sense as you can run it using cheap/easy to come by 7MGTE electronics.

Why bother?

It's a little bit of a black art given the newer alloys and coatings, worst result I had was Ross pistons Coated at their recommended specs..... CLACK CLACK CLACK when Cold or if you were cruising using trailling throttle on a cool night..... :nono: Good luck with your build.

From memory they are Coated stock, It all depends on the Alloy used and what coatings are used to how much they expand, I ran my JE's at 3 thou last build due to the added coatings.

In the old days forgings weren't quite the same so you had to allow a lot of clearence so it wouldn't seize in the bore as the piston expanded, in high output engines that generate a lot of cylinder temp the pistons will expand more so you leave it a touch loose. As I mentioned earlier...

Yes, it will be a bit clacky on cold starts, fine as long as you don't push it hard until it's fully warmed up. I found using Piston crown coatings would have thie effect as well as they reduce the expansion of the piston so clearence needed to be adjusted to suit.

"It's gone and he'll never own another" ;)

The Al engines are only 10 Kg's lighter than a 7M there's no way known an Iron block is lighter. "L98" Gen I-V are an Al/Al 6.0L engine, if you're talking the old SBC L98 it's going to be much heavier again.

5 thou will sound like a Diesel as it warms up...... Do NOT lean on it hard until fully warm.

Happy to hear they have their software/support issues sorted Ant, the hardware has great potential.

100% correct get your ass into a few different seats the price point is low on the list of considerations when seat shopping, fit and safety are at the top, I have the scars to prove it...

Way back I ran an internal gated GT3540r and had ALL of these issues, poor boost response down low and then when adjusted/preloaded Mad creep up high, EBC solved them all to a certain extent (with a very light actuator it would still blow the flapper off the seat at times causing Lag and always...

An EBC will improve things as it will divert the + pressure until it reaches the opening pressure you set, plumbed normally the actuator will start to open at 1psi unless it's preloaded, if it is then you risk creep on the top end and uncontrolled boost.

Hardness test it first, ditto on a replacement BEFORE handing over the $.

What oil did you use to break the engine in?

No need to repost it Al.