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here's a good test to tell if it's rodknock, AND will let you know which cylander it's in if you do have knock. turn off the car. pull one sparkplug wire, start car. rev it, if you still hear the noise, turn the car off, then plug that wire back in. then do another, and repeat that step...

a word of wisdom: whenever you have a question, search mkiiitech.com or www.4cefed.com before you ask the question. the answer is usually there, thanks to dr. j. that being said, here's the exact link: http://www.speedtoys.com/~stryder//tech/natachchanges.jpg -shaeff

definately get the adjustable 'click' model. they're much better, and you dont have to strain your neck to watch the stupid little inaccurate gauge when you should be concentrating on making a smooth torquing sequence. get one of a reputable brand name. all my tools are craftsman. -shaeff

sparta at the drive in the mars volta face to face (i used to be in a rock band, and we played with them once) the stryder (played w/ them too, they're awesome!) anadivine (formerly jerk magnet) head automatica (former singer from glassjaw's new project, they're like rock/hiphop influence...

the sensor for that light is in the resivour. did you fill the resivour or the radiator? check both. make sure the resivour is full to the proper level, as soon as it reaches the minimum required coolant, the light should turn off immediately. -shaeff

you should toast him, as long as you're not a bad driver. maybe boost up a little more. -shaeff

the ARP headbolts are re-usable too, i dont know where you got that info from... the studs are better because when you tighten them, you're not trying to torque the threads into the head, which creates friction. with the studs, you get a more accurate torque reading, and better overall clamping...

congrats. i remember my first boosting experience. running open BIC ddp. boy was that fun! -shaeff

maybe the little motor for it burned out? see if it's getting voltage. -shaeff

i was hoping jeff would chime in with a part number. haha (he has them memorized!!!) -shaeff

haha, zipties, speaker wire! good stuff. :icon_razz -shaeff

get an N/A :gaybar: -shaeff

it sure does, works like a charm:) i'd like to see that. haha. -shaeff

go to the dealership and get one for a 90-92 supra. it costs less than that of the older years, but is the exact same thing. i paid like $30. it's well worth it. -shaeff

it's never once come out of the holder. i've got some thread lock on there, as well as two lock washers, one on each side. it fits damn tight because the way the little steel cable guide is, fits PERFECTLY with the hex head of the bolt! a little longer cable would make it a bit easier to do...

why did you post this thread twice? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1128 it's the same thing! for future reference, dont do that. its hella annoying to see the same thread twice... -shaeff

he already has a resonator. maybe try a different muffler. get rid of the fart can style, and get something a little less flowing maybe. -shaeff

i've got a JDM throttlebody on my car, (JDM motor). i used to be N/A, so i used my stock N/A throttle cable. it works great. here's some pics of how i secured it. it's pretty ghetto looking, but it works flawlessly. sorry for the crappy pics, they're from my cameraphone. also, you can see that i...

hit that right on the head. -shaeff

check out these threads from the MK3 Supra Information/Reference section: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=590 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1097 -shaeff