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is this one of the reasons i've never seen ridges at the top of a 7m block before. (where the piston would stop, forming a ridge from wear) ... or have i just not seen enough 7m blocks yet, haha. -shaeff

thats what i was thinking... -shaeff

what are your mods? fuel? turbo? etc? -shaeff

from what i've read, it's going to caruse you to leak oil from the front case area. thats why i'm up right now at 5:30am so i can pull the head back off, then just have my dad help me lift it off the head before he goes to work. (then it's going back on at like 10:30am) i'm not wasting time...

kurt, the valves are actually those ones that guy Ted (englebar or something) was selling on ebay a few years ago. i've had them since before i even did a turbo swap. i figured now was the time to use them. my machinist said they're damn nice, and actually showed me some 7m ferrea valves, and...

heh, not yet! i will, dont you worry. this is the 400hp motor. (when i gets me another longblock, ima build the crap out of it) this motor will be my spare, in time. however, i might prep/paint the block while the motor is out. i havent decided. if i do it will be a light-ish gray, so i can...

i think my luck has turned. tonight i go to bed early so i can get up at 5am. i'll be pulling the head back off. [puts on double thick flame suit] heh, it might help if i had som FIPG on those two small spots at the timing cover, huh? :: slaps self in head :: so i'm going to do that...

taken from the information/reference section: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423 -shaeff

thats rough, i'm sorry to hear that bro. :( my dog had to be put to sleep several years ago. she was a huskie/malamute mix. (snow dogs) big and fluffy, full of life, obediant, and cuddly. she got cancer of the lymphnodes (glands) and eventually had to be put to sleep, and it happened to be a...

try cleaning the contacts on the switch first. if that fails, pick up a good used one, then if that fails, pull the door apart and replace the motor. go from cheapest to most expensive. -shaeff

no reason to sigh, sir. thats some good info. (cant believe i missed it!) -shaeff

so today tony came down to my place and we messed with my motor. we ended up getting the headgasket coated, on, and torqued down to 90ft. lbs. we also set the base timing. (that was a pain) everything went relatively smoothly. i had the motor sitting on some wood blocks, as i didnt want to...

you adjusted what screw? you're not supposed to adjust any screw for idle. it's computer controlled, and any adjustment you make, will just be adapted to by the ECU. -shaeff

where are you located, out of curiosity... and go to doc. jonez's site. as abustiffy said. it's extremely helpful. to answer your question quickly about the wiring- get an engine harness that the ECU side of the connectors color matches the color of the connectors in the chassis of your...

i vote to re-open the thread! it sure is a good one. -shaeff

oh, i know it will last. doc. jonez made his last with a CM stage IV clutch (way more harsh than mine) i dont beat on it all the time, but i have faith in my w58. if/when it blows, i'll upgrade to the r154, but i'm not about to drop my $550 CM stage III and fidanza FW for the w58 just yet...

i think he's implying that 100ft lbs is too tight for a stocker. i'll bet he thinks that since it's a composite gasket, that it squished and deformed from so much clamping pressure, which i suppose, could happen... that coincides with the theory of re-torquing a stock HG. many believe that...

eh, or just get the dent fixed. covering up the problem is what gives mkiii owners a bad reputation. get it done right the first time. i would never cover it up. -shaeff

heh, i'm doing the permatex brake spray + cometic. i spoke with Adjuster (Greg) about it a few weeks back. i have high hopes for my setup lasting :) keep us updated on how that brake quiet works! -shaeff

thanks man, i appreciate it. :) i cant wait for it to be done!! -shaeff