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www.supratsrm.com -shaeff

this is the site for heater core replacement. just follow the instructions for dash removal, and dont touch the heater core. :) http://duanesmith.nstemp.net/autoheater.html also, as someone already stated, dont remove the steering wheel. just pull the two nuts off the bottom of it (no...

probably the dimmer. check that sucker... -shaeff

either what Ideal said, or its the connector for the ABS (sensor on top of tranny) if you have antilock brakes. -shaeff

thats a common misconception. you'll want to run higher octane if you're boosting more, but on a relitavely stock car, or even mildly modded, you'll get the best performance out of running the lowest octane possible without detonation/pinging. -shaeff

12v fuel mod: here it is on www.mkiiitech.com- http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=161 good thread on SF: http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=266403

interesting how they are both '89 cars, and the nose emblems are different. one newer toyota one, and one older 'supra' one. eh.. -shaeff

oh, i didnt know that you had origionally swapped the electronics. my mistake :) -shaeff

heh, i got my N/A off ebay for $820. (i turbo swapped it) however, the origional motor had around 200k miles on it, and it ran strong till the day i spun a bearing. -shaeff

yes, that was his problem. i'm assuming that his LEX afm electronics were faulty. -shaeff

the first thread has all the info you need: (jeff lange is wicked good with stuff like this) check mkiiitech.com too. it's post #4 that you're looking at for the info. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2327&highlight=lsd this is just some more info...

eh, i re-torqued with my JDM motor. the stock bolts were never stretched fully, and wont break when re-torquing to 72ft lbs. many, many people have done it. i personally havent heard of a single time when one broke. the tolerance was discussed once before, i dont remember the exact figures, but...

this is a common misconception. it is not the headgasket that is to blame. the problem is the low torqe figure of the stock headbolts. factory specs call for 52 ft. lbs. which is entirely too low a figure to hold the head tight enough to the block. the bolts loosen up and back out a little over...

ya really gotta wiggle those suckers. wiggle it good. once you get it in, you'll feel great! ;) -shaeff

eh, to me, all those are rudimentary ways of getting out the bolt. try one of these suckers... BOLT EXTRACTOR <---- click that! -shaeff

i'm in upstate new york, and have no smog. they look at my hollowed out cat and pass me:) i also have no charcoal canister or EGR. -shaeff

just for comparrison: knock sensor connectors from my local dealer = $22 for two. Jay Marks price= $14 and change shipped to my door. very fast service. i'll be ordering quite the buttload of parts from them from now on. (dont visit SF much) -shaeff