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they're like the same damn movie. hahahaha. which do you like better? lock stock, or snatch? mr. wizard owns all. -shaeff

IJ. : yeah, i set my fuel rail back up like stock, except for the 550's. (i put on both the stock FPD/hardline, and the stock FPR/return line) problem still occurs. it is quite fascinating, except i really want my car to run! :( -shaeff

so, i put in the RC 550's, and as i expected, the problem is still here. no reving, fuel pressure drops. i also re-wired the fuel pump using the stock wires to power a relay. got some nice thick wire running fromt the battery to power the pump, and the pump ground is now grounded to a good...

as soon as my car is painted, this is what i'll have. i'm already wingless (was N/A), i already have the sunshade. next all i need is the 89+ tails. :bowdown: -shaeff

yeah, thats what i use. best i've found so far. i love 'em! (wal mart for like a dollar each!) -shaeff

71 EGR System Malfunction Diagnosis EGR gas temp below predetermined level during EGR operation. Open circuit in EGR gas temp sensor signal (THG). Trouble Area EGR system (EGR valve, EGR hose etc.) EGR gas temp sensor circuit EGR gas temp sensor VSV for EGR circuit VSV for...

why dont you just get super small female spade connectors, and make jumpers to go from your ohm meters to the TPS? its much easier that way:) you can easily hold the TPS/TB, and watch the ohm meter without anything slipping off ;) -shaeff

correct, sir. and to add to it: in '89.5+ cars, the HAC sensor is built in the ECU, whereas on 87-88 turbo cars, the HAC is external, and mounts under the glove box area. the harness to bod plugs are completely different (hence, why they are not interchangable between yearspans) and a...

damn, and i honestly thought it was a buick! -shaeff

:stickpoke -shaeff

it really depends on what you're going for. if this is JUST a daily driver, no mods or anything, i'd rather have the w58, as it shifts more smoothly than the r154. for any powerful car, definately the r154. it's good insurance. -shaeff

i'm not sure, call champion toyota, and ask for Jeff. he'll hook you up. -shaeff

love those baby butts. mmmm... :drool: -shaeff

take a look through this thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6194 i found it MUCH easier to remove the throttle body from the car. -shaeff

my vote is still for the BIC. three reasons: 1) hes one cool dude, who really cares about mkiii's. 2) his products are of wicked good quality. 3) he's a vendor in our forums, support him!!! -shaeff

heh, you all look so damn clean when you work on your cars! i look like a gat damn grease monkey. (though, i dont wear clothes that resemble 'nice' looking) i wear crappy, dirty, ripped up, nasty clothes to work on the car. then i shower up and take it for a spin! nothin like bein' clean...

here's just about all the info you need on spark plugs: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36 http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=194 -shaeff

or some anti-corrosion battery spray found at most local auto stores. -shaeff

yet ANOTHER update: my GOD this car is KILLING me!!! steve, i've tried multiple vacuum sources. even without the vacuum line my pressure should AT LEAST remain constant. many people run w/o the vacuum line. i too, doubt it's my injectors. there's really no way that they could outflow...

it depends on what MHG you're looking at. i believe the HKS, TMS (titan motorsports), and GReddy MHG's require 10RA or less. the Cometic (make sure you remove the rivet!) requires 50RA or less. and remember that you've gotta have that finish on both the head and block. -shaeff