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unfortunately, i have no vids of his car, or pics. but if you want to see how rusty my car is, have a look here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13571 and a vid of me doing doughnuts/semi-drifting here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14524 i'll...

heh, didn't even know more people replied to this! :( yes, if you notice, the very first "drift" if you will, was actually pretty long, but if you listen to the motor, i gave it a LITTLE too much throttle and it whipped around too far at the very end. i wasn't happy about that. :( i used to...

Becauseican did it. it took a lot of work. it'll take a lot of work to get it right. you can't just fill the indentions with body filler. you have to weld metal in there, then smooth it out using as little filler as possible. -shaeff

i never had a problem with spiking with dr. jonez's MBC. -shaeff

jetjock, i had no idea they were programed differently, and programmed differently for diagnostic trouble codes! that's weird! very cool info, as usual. -shaeff

i switched my stock phillips screws out for 6 point bolts of the same thread pitch. (stainless, of course) and new cove washers from toyota. i also put a very thin layer of RTV sealer on the entire mating surface of the gasket, and i've NEVER had my vavle covers leak. -shaeff

heh, i wish that was my car. i'd pull that wing off, slap on a stock 3 piece, whale tale, or leave it wingless, and learn to shift with my left hand! -shaeff

i just used a rag dampened with carb cleaner. i didnt use it on the rubber O-ring. if you're taking it off, make sure you have a new gasket for it. ;) -shaeff

NDBoost: is your car a california car? i have no EGR or FPU vsv, and i dont have any codes. i just taped the wires to the main harness to kee them out of the way. -shaeff

it's common for the wire jumping +B and FP to get warm. mine does it, too. what i'd do, is unplug the fuel pump, hook up a multimeter to the fuel pump wires, then jump the aforementioned terminals. as long as you're getting a constant voltage, (not jumping around) i'd use the stock wires to...

thanks guys. :) i just bought a greddy profec B electronic boost controller from garagefugimoto. so i should build boost even more quickly now, thus pulling away even harder. :) i cant wait! -shaeff

you mean like these? ;) -shaeff

i don't have emissions where i live. :) but i saved my CC just incase i move somewhere that does. :) -shaeff

getting paint next month. the rear wiper and antenna are both shaved. (did the wiper this past weekend, the antenna's been gone for quite some time. this pic it still has the wiper, though.) -shaeff

i was going maft pro, but i think i've lost the funding to do so the way i want. that might get pushed off until winter when the car isn't being driven as much. i dont want any downtime in the summer. as for my mods for summer? paint next month, putting my mkIV rims on when i get my tires...

if you're intent on removing it, listen to lagged. if you vent it under the hood, several things might/can/will happen. 1) you'll have gas fumes entering the cabin of the car, and it gets very old, very fast. 2) as lagged already stated more than once, it vents right near the exhaust...

if that's on the driver's side, near the ignitor, it connects to a small black box type thing, probably only 1" x 1/2" that's directed directly to the chassis. i dont know what it's called, or what it does, but i'm pretty sure that's where it goes. -shaeff

pull the cable off the transmission, unhook it from it's mounts up through the engine bay, hang it from the hood. pour oil down it, and let it sit overnight. that should cure the problem. if you're really ambitious, you could also take out the gauge cluster and put a bit of oil in the cable that...

very funny, ron! haha. i realized that after i typed it, then i figured the origional poster would figure it out. :) -shaeff

yep, it was figgie. he had a custom DAMPENED (key word here) crank pulley made, and i believe he had the option to have an A/C belt slot or not to have one. :) -shaeff