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the main reason headgaskets fail is because the stock torque figure of 50 something ft. lbs. is NOT enough, and the bolts loosen up. a stock gasket, ARP hardware torqued to 85ft lbs. and a good tune and you can push more boost. -shaeff

while we're all on the subject of computers and laptops, etc... i'll probably be going back to college NEXT september, but i'd like to get myself a nice little laptop to do some datalogging on, etc.. for my maft pro unit. anyone got any suggestions? i it has to be good for school, fast...

i'm re-torquing this week. i'm just going to pop the timing belt off. it'll save some hassle. i'd rather not have to torque, turn the crank, torque, torque, turn the crank, etc... turning the timing gears is easier. so i just pop the timing belt off and turn them as i see fit. then just...

that makes two owners that i've met. :) you, and TONY!. -shaeff

i've got a clunk in my rear end too. it's from worn bushings. whenever i let off the throttle, it makes the clunk, whenever i floor it again, it does it too. -shaeff

if you drop the tank, use flare wrenches along with some PB blast penetrating lubricant, that fuel filter will come right off. trust me. mine was rusted on SOLID. i could barely distinguish where the fittings were. i wire brushed it off, sprayed it with PB blast for a few days 2-3 times a day...

i'd love to drop a 7m in an mk2. :( they're so badass! enjoy it! -shaeff

so a pirate walks into a bar with a steering wheel tied to his pants. a waitress walks up to him and states: "sir, you have a steering wheel tied to your pants..." the pirate replies: "arrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! it's drivin' me nuts!" haha. i love that one...

here ya go- post #4: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1515#post1515 this is in the informative links sticky at the top of the 7m tech section. edit: isnms- isn't it odd that we both posted pretty much the same info on the same day on two different forums. (albeit...

in my personal opinion, 400-420 rwhp is a good number for stock internals. by that, i mean of course that your motor *SHOULD* last a while at those levels. (we'll see, as that's what i'm doing) once you get into the 500rwhp range, it's only a matter of time before something fails. if you're...

yours came with a steering wheel?! ugh. i got ripped off! -shaeff

just keep it stock... i'm at 340 at the crank, and my timing is at 10* BTDC. -shaeff

the cool thing about working at best buy isn't the money you make, but instead, the discount you get on most any product they sell, (except ipods). i got a viper alarm system, with the paging feature, top of the line one that best buy had, cost like $600, for $175 through a friend before he...

that's incredibly impressive. i'm glad you've finally made it over to SM. -shaeff

lumbchuck: PLEASE do NOT make multiple threads about the same topic. it's really annoying, and will actually yeild you LESS answers than if you posted one thread with your specific needs/questions. i merged your two threads into one, and contained it into one post. please keep that in mind...

once i swapped, i never looked back. my poor old GE motor. :( -shaeff

stickied. also, lanky is no longer a moderator of this section. -shaeff

here's a good shot. see the tiny hole? that's the restriction- edit: YES, it's a HUGE pic! -shaeff

heh, that's actually my fault. i changed the design a little bit. i must have printed you the old directions. :( i'm an idiot. anyway, this is how your harness should go: there is ONE ground wire, it has the crimp on connector on the end of it. find the nearest ground under the dashboard...

crap! i'd have done that all for you for $100. -shaeff