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They do VVT in the late model engines Andy, DOHC isn't that big a deal with Roller rockers and Roller lifters, you just need to compare the physical size of an LS to say Fords Modular engine, I'd prefer the smaller package, a 1uz is wider and only an inch or so longer for -2 litres displacement...

An LS is improved in every single area and a far superior engine, a Jz is an evolution of a 7M so not a huge leap forward.

There are some pics of the car in Misty's profile album sadly none of her though ;) (assuming Misty is a "she" of course)

Welcome to SM Misty! By all means get some pics of you and the car up.

Way back I had an L20b Nissan that suffered from the factory "too long bolts used in blind holes" BHG issue.. It was so bad that it would fill a cylinder hydrolocking the engine so the starter wouldn't turn it, only way to get it to run was to pull the plug crank it spraying the water out...

Thought Manifolds/Headers/Cams and Sensors were different as well?

Just goes to show some people shouldn't work on cars ever.... Andy: FFS knock it off and grow the fuck up.... :nono:

I make the majority of my own shit and it ALL bolts on ;)

100%, if they're going to sleeve it make sure it's the thinnest sleeve they can get. If your pistons are good I'd look at selling them to offset another set and bore it but that's just me, the 7M is enough of a gamble even when everything is "right" ;)

"might" get away with 1 sleeve but I wouldn't for a performance build due to the 7M's siamese cylinders adding so much strength to the 7M's wet noodle block (would have been so much worse with conventional bores)

That looks "right", personally I wouldn't use it as is :( Might get away with it as a GE but not a performance GTE.. Way back I nipped up a ring and trashed a bore on a set of 2000 Km old Ross pistons in a brand new block, pistons survived no probs but I had to go to the next OS bore...

Piston will be 20 thou out of the hole at TDC, measure to the top ring then subtract that from 91mm, measure this distance down the hole is where the top ring stops. 2.9" is about 73.6mm.

I meant for how far down the bore it is compared to the ring stack at the bottom of the stroke.

Take some measurements, as it's down in the low pressure part of the stroke you might just have a little extra blowby, which cylinder is it?

Problem is getting it all clean enough, it takes time to squeeze a nice bead onto the pan then start screwing it up, in that time oil can seep down onto the block rail and prevent the RTV bonding and this ends up as a leak.. Do you have access to a compressor and spray gun? If yes use...

How far down is it?

Up to you it's a lot of work either way just harder to get a 100% seal if you do it under the car and it'd suck having to redo it if it still leaks..

All depends on how far down you want/need to get the Subframe, personally I'd pull the engine and Trans if you have an engine lift there.

You can actually buy a tool for this job it's adjustable to fit different cars ;) Length of heavy wall cage tubing did the job!