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Shhh, don't let the secret out... Out of all the 1jz swaps we have done (a lot) with used 1jz engines, none have had a bhg, or any internal issues. It's not a 7m vs 1j thing until the people who like only the 7m start spewing misinformation about the 1jz. There are good reasons for...

You would fall into the denial group.

As much as I love my 7m, it will never be a 1jz or 2jz. You "7m is as good as a 1jz and it's cheaper" guys are either in denial or have no experience with the jz engines. It will cost you as much to make a 7m reliable at 300whp as it will to swap in a 1jz.

:biglaugh: That's what they all say BEFORE they start the swap :biglaugh:

Wrong. Arguements make for great angry sex, but the relationship goes back to crap afterwards. But I'm with Supracentral, all the bs and drama is just not worth it. If she broke up with me at a family event I would leave her ass there and let her explain why she needs a ride home. Are all...

:biglaugh: I'll get one today.

It's not a ct26 :icon_wink I don't see any advantage to making a small turbo external wastegate. It's a lot more simple and reliable to be internal.

:biglaugh: hahaahhaha You should hear mine, who needs a damn Harley when you have an open wastegate! I'll make a video soon.

I came up with a solution for this problem a while back with the 7/16 helicoil kits I sell: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?p=165412#post165412 out of car 7/16: $67 SHIPPED! 1) 7/16 helicoil kit 8) helicoils (one extra just in case: murphy's law) 7) studs 7) metal lock...

With elevated boost levels the stock airbox does become a restriction. It takes more vacuum to suck air through a stock filter box then a big open element filter, and that translates to less boost. Why do you think big hp cars sometimes run no filter at all?

I was not paying by the hour :icon_wink BIG thanks to the other Aaron and the REAL Turbo Joe, this guy: www.turbojoe.com

No, we just made changes until it looked best. :dunno: It was like: VROOM! ok, that sucked. VROOM!, ok that sucked worse. VROOM! ok, that's betterer...

It made noticeable differences in midrange power, and the peak hp vs. torque. I think it would help more with aftermarket cams to go with the gears.

Thanks dude! It's 2deg retarded on exhaust, and 1 deg retarded on intake, and I'm 360deg retarded. :biglaugh: That's where it liked to be after many adjustments. The changes are mostly in the midrange power. The head had been surfaced two times, and the block two times, with a 2mm mhg. Not...

:biglaugh: Remember, mine was done on a budget, a low budget. :icon_wink The reason I am happy with the numbers is not because it's the best, it's because it is a good return on my investment in fun! I have no question in my mind that I could work out a few more little details and...

You got it, the a/f was right around 11.4. I have a good frame of reference of what a turbo that is "too big" is now, and this one is not.

Should not be a problem with the mods listed!

Thanks everybody! It does look like it comes on late on the graph, but on the street it's different. It's hitting 10psi by 3200rpm on the street. It spools almost as fast as the 50 trim ct26 did, as measured on my butt dyno. I really need more rpm because it just keeps pulling, and it only...

Well you make a run and see what it needs. You make a/f adjustments and sometimes that makes it worse. So you put it back exactly where it was but now the a/f is different at the same rpm points as before. I am still using 4.4 I believe.

Thanks! Glass bead cabinet FTW! You will have to take it apart to do it though. I even disassembled the alternator and removed the windings from the case to bead blast the aluminum.