yes, the 22re is a pretty reliable motor. i kindof feel bad about the 7m swap i'm going to do this summer. i'll keep the 22re handy incase anything happens to the 7m.
however, i will be doing a full stock rebuild on the 7m before it goes in the truck. i cannot justify putting another 100k...
here's a quote that stuck with me for a few years now. word for word, i've always remembered it, and back when i was running thicker oil, this quote is the first thing that made me change my 1k mile old oil back to 10w30.
since then, i've read many of JJ's and jdub's posts about oil, and...
^ yeah, i forgot to mention i had set the car up for the install before i got to the lift. so, it probably took me about an hour and fifteen minutes (not inlcuding the beer/lunch break) :)
-shaeff
eh, i'd change my oil, but i'm very anal about general maintenance. (for example: when the starter died on my '94 toyota pickup, i spent about an hour trying to get it to start, as i was at the bottom of a hill, and by myself at about 1 am.
i didn't want to call anyone for help. when i...
try again. sr5's came in 4 cylanders or 6's. (22re, 3vze, 3uzfe, 5uzfe) (i think those last two are right for the '95+ models)
as SupraCentral noted, it was a trim package. my '94 is considered an SR5, and really the only thing different was the rims (it came with AR rims- but that probably...
shaeff's favorite pic of himself. hot damn do i miss those days. :(
ps, i don't look like that anymore. i had to grow up and get a real job. :(
-shaeff
check this out- a toyota pickup with a 22re motor (4 cylander)- starts and RUNS (all the while spewing out oil that you can see if you look carefully), and you can actually see parts of the rotating assembly moving up and down through the hole in the block...
i have a little magnifying glass feature on my mouse, and i can see something there. it's certainly not you. however, i wouldn't be able to tell you what it is, exactly. but i do see what you mean.
-shaeff
how long was it run like that? running uber rich for extended periods of time can cause fuel to seep past the rings and into your oil, thus thinning it out, and reducing it's lubricative properties, which, of course, can lead to rod knock.
if it happened quickly, you probably don't have to...
my cable was jittering around 30mph. the long piece appeared to be in fine shape, as did the lower portion. i went to my local dealer (through whom i get things at the employee cost because i know them all very well since i buy things there ALL the time)- and i got the entire cable assembly for...
nice. exhaust angle is way too much for me, but that's been said already.
after my 275/40 falken azenis get too worn, i'll be making a sweet burnout vid. :)
-shaeff
PT, Lucas, RC, are all good injectors.
if memory serves me well, PT and lucas are the same injectors, just badged differently. do NOT quote me on that, though. do some research.
edit: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=84
-shaeff
you don't live in the rust belt. that being said, flare wrenches (also known as line wrenches), and lots of PB blast have always made fuel filter jobs easy for me, and i live in the rust belt.
my filter came right off, too, after pre-soaking it for several days before trying to remove it. :)...
so when you turn your lights on, the dash lights go out, but the climate control stays on?
check to make sure that your hazzard light switch is plugged in. :)
it'll do just that if it's not.
-shaeff
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