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how about the fact that you're straight up wrong? you post in a manner that makes it seem as if you KNOW they're not needed. have you talked to the toyota tech that designed them? i'll bet you haven't. just because it hasn't broken yet, doesn't mean that it won't in the future. besides, why NOT...

high temp silicone > all http://www.hightempsilicone.com/ -shaeff

wow. turbo and N/A knock sensors are interchangable. if you broke the actual KS (knock sensor), buy one used. many toyotas use the same one our cars do. go to a junkyard and score one for $10. you should just do a full rewire anyway. don't mess with old connectors. get a brand new...

i think that this thread has served it's purpose. thread closed. for reference: the stock BPV is designed to fluctuate between open and closed at idle. as for the e-fights going on here lately, here's my point of view on the whole thing, so take it for what it's worth. this is the internet...

for sure! (if you wanna make the journey all the way up there, it's pretty far from you) -shaeff

the first pics, i'm going to guess they're for VSV's, however don't quote me on that as the pics are blurry. as for the CPS connector, definatly replace it! -shaeff

people- please stop quoting pics with the [IMG] tags still there. it puts un-needed stress on the server. i edited quite a few posts to remove the IMG tags. -shaeff

i was going to say, i have a decent head here. if you end up needing it, pay shipping and it's yours. (hell, i have an N/A block you can have too if you need it) -shaeff

ah me neither... haha. we def. gotta get some slips. bryan (slow66 here on the forum) goes to lebanon. i'm looking forward to meeting with him again this summer. mad cool dude for sure. (and he's building a sweet 7m supra dragster with a solid rear axle!) -shaeff

f-you! we'll see. even if you do smoke me, i'll gladly return the favor as soon as i'm done building the new motor. ;) -shaeff

soo, all we really need to do is hook up your battery, feed and return, driveshaft, tranny crossbrace needs that other bolt in it, the subframe brace, fluids, and that's about it... hopefully it'll fire right up. (i sure hope it does!) i figure about an 1.5-2hrs to have it running. -shaeff

fo sho'. i really need to get back to work on it. i've just been so busy with your car, and last week when i helped out mo89NA with his car, and i have too many damn hobbies... :( -shaeff

so next time i come down (i'm mad tired too!) we'll seriously get that bitch running! :) and perhaps if you have the wallypump by then, we can boost it a bit. i won't take part in boost on the N/A pump. -shaeff

far too many variables to consider with the minimal amount of information you posted. -shaeff

^ very true. my front rotors are warped from the previous owner overtorquing the wheel studs. i'll end up replacing all of them on the car before it sees the streets again. (and to remedy the terrible wobbly front brakes.... a set of willwood 6 pots from ARZ within the next month;)) -shaeff

a70 weight index: http://www.trdsupra.com/ -shaeff

that's pretty sweet. :) there are only two things that i don't like: 1) the (boost?) gauge shoved in the ash tray spot. (it needs to be smaller, or the tray area custom modified so it doesn't look crammed in there) 2) the cut out front end, but that's incredibly functional, so i'll negate...

the reason i haven't shaved all the molding is because i hate the look without the side markers. if/when i do decide to shave them, i'll keep the markers in place. it just looks weird without them. lookin' good, though. :) -shaeff

life keeps getting in the way, actually. i'll work on it when i can finally put my tools back in my large standup toolbox. (rather than in those smaller portable boxes that i use to bring my crap to your house) i can't stand constantly re-organizing my tools. i work clean at my house, and to...

i don't believe it. not for one second. -shaeff