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with a t4 turbo, you wouldn't want to run an internal wastegate anyway. ;)

i got a 24x12x3 intercooler like that through 935motorsports here on the forums. great quality, and rob was awesome to deal with. :)

you can simply drill it out, or take off the plate, grind off the actual j-tube fuel pipe, and paint the remaining plate. that's what i did. :) however, behind that plate is a hole (as lintlars stated)- which was originally used for a mechanical fuel pump on some of the previous style M series...

yeah, i know. it just makes you log in to that forum to access the info, so i took the liberty to sign up so i could just post here. it's a pet peeve of mine when you have to log into a forum to read something like that, so i just copy/pasted it for everyone else. ;) i have a BIC DDP, and love...

fix your damn exhaust, gixxer! ;) congrats, you poopface!

with the walbro fuel pump, you MUST drill out the J-tube, lest you run ridiculously rich. your stock fuel pressure regulator will be fine, but the J-tube WILL NOT bleed the pressure off fast enough to the return line. just follow the return line from the fuel pressure regulator down to the metal...

you tell me. here's a pic of both side by side. :) http://www.4cefed.com/w58vsr154/w58vsr154.html and if it helps you along any further, the w58 and r154 use the same shifter. ;)

99lbs without the bellhousing: http://trdsupra.com/library/A70WeightIndex.pdf

yeah, i don't bag anything. i remember where it all goes at this point. (well, on my car anyway). so long as i do the job in the same week or so, bagging things just takes extra time. if you don't have a good memory for stuff like this, bag/label might save you, though.

what exactly do you need help with? sorry to hear about the break in. edit: it looks like they made a nice mess of things. :(

also: :)

that information is also out there, a quick search revealed: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=64537&postcount=3 all manual turbo mk3's came with the r154, all manual n/a's came with the w58. edit: that would be the 4.30. ;) the 4.10 is a jza70 torsen diff.

the info is out there. ;) http://www.4cefed.com/w58vsr154/w58vsr154.html

^ correct. much easier than pulling the wheel. :)

ACIS doesn't work under positive pressure. see drjonez's sites for details. ;) the 4.30, however, :)

Stay in school, kids.

not to stray from the topic at hand, but being N/A or Turbo has nothing to do with rod knock. ;) that would be a result of the owner. ;)

proof? just because your friend broke his doesn't mean that they're ALL weak. ;) way too many variables... oh, and thread moved to OT.

edit: damn i type slowly on my laptop. that guy beat me to it^ i believe those rims also came in 16x8 front and 16x9 rear. i was going to buy a set of them from a friend about 4.5 years ago, but he kept them on his starion instead. i think they look decent.