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Since the head is off it would be like most of the work already done to just pull the block. You can just change that one bearing as long as the crank isn't messed up. It's not the best option but can be done in a pinch for temp.

If you don't have abs you won't have that plug. It's for abs and on 89+ pps.

Radiator busted. Either cheap radiator or cheap cap. I've seen rads crack bad and if there weak to begin with and you take them through canyon hard they will burst.

See. Stock there is a sPacer. Also if the but is not tight against the mount there is going to be a knocking noise.

Agreed with both above. I've ran ebc and Trd brake pads both are great. And good pad and stock blank rotor and clean brake fluid. My brake fluid looks new even after 23 years.

The strut piston will turn. There is supposed to be a spacer in the rear struts. And the nut is supposed to be tight. They can sometimes come loose.

I'm sure that it's easier with it out but I had them out in prolly the same time or less the motor would have came out. The worst part is the back bolts and the back bottom exhaust manifold nuts.

Check the little blue or white wire on the positive terminal. They can sometimes look connected but really not. It's also the main power wire for the entire car.

Driftmotion sells poly bushings as well. Also make sure the rack bushings are good.

It's a giant pain in the ass. I did it on a lift so I could only imagine doing it on the ground. I have abs and had to lift the motor up and move and lines out of the way to get the back bolt for turbo inlet. Hate to say it but single is so much easier.

If I changed from my type s I'd get a tial.

Mine fixed itself. No idea why or how. Got huge vibration getting off fwy and the next day back to my house. Day after that it was fine. Dunno why.

Mine are the same way. Except I get like a inch or 2 in the back and like 3-4 in the front.

Google images. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/prettiboi717/Rebuild%20in%20Progress/ECU-pinout-87.gif http://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&source=mog&hl=en&gl=us&client=safari&tab=wi&q=87%207mgte%20ecu%20pinout&sa=N&biw=320&bih=356#p=0

Stock rods can handle a good amount. I'd go with the cp pistons if you want 500 tho just for reliability reasons.

That's not a good way to test the alternator. ..

If it started blowing black smoke after the afpr might need to lower the psi some. Can also take fuel out with the afc.

I used the one I bought new for my 88na on my 89t. Been working fine since I bought it 5 years ago.

Site might not be updated. Try giving them a call or pm rwdanthony. They havnt been out for very long for the mk3.

Try and get a divided manifold and exhaust housing. It will make for faster spool. I have a 6262 with .84 divided and get full spool around 3500-3800 rpm on a 1jz. A tubular manifold will provide better flow as well. And external gates control boost a lot better than internal. I use a 46mm...