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What are the actual alignment specs? What kind of driving do you do? Are the shocks blown?

Dm sells a ct rebuild kit art.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?76463-Comprehensive-Lighting-Modification-Thread&highlight=Light+modification+thread Think it's in there. Didn't check tho.

I'd go with the single. It's going to be hard to hit 550 wheel and have top end with twins. Plus you have to bang the firewall. Single is cleaner and easier and IMO more fun.

The trans will get hotter if it's low on fluid. Is the shifter boots there? Is the top seal for the shifter plate good? Abs? Speed sensor o ring leaking?

Ya the abs light is the check engine light for the abs system... http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BR&P=51

If your running a bigger pump definiality drill out or bypass the j tube. It acts as a back up for the fpr incase it fails. Bigger pump will out flow that tiny litle hole it has.

Raise the boost till you hit fuel cut then back it off till you don't. If you have a fcd or bcc then around 13-14psi. 17 id suggest having 440's. Also this will greatly reduce the life span of the stock turbos but it's more reason to go single.

There is no vacuum line. There is that little filter thing and then a piece of vacuum hose attaches it to the little diaphragm on the throttle linkage.

dashpot. It slightly pushes up on the throttle linkage so when you let off the rpms come down smoothly.

If its hard to turn stopped at idle and is easier when moving or revs up then theres a good chance its the idle up valve or the vacuum lines. There's 2. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=SR&P=2

My car was never stinky with a 7m and high flow 3in cat. Not stinky now with a 1j and no cat. Once in a while I'll get a smell but it's not of rotten eggs. Best bet to get power and keep both would be to buy the downpipe. Cut and weld in a 3 in high flow and do the same with the rear cat...

It's easy. Just do one side at a time so you can look at the other if your forget.

89+ had cup holders in the center console. There pretty useless with a fountain drink and uncomfortable with anything there. And when you brake any sort of hard the cover comes forward and the drink comes at you.

Get 47611 the horse shoe clip at the top. The pins on the left you don't need unless there messed up.

You can reuse the hardware. That's not an issue. The parking brake shoes are very small to begin with and even close to metal they will still last for a long time. They just hold the car so it doesn't move. No braking done with them.

Rear take off the caliper and rotor and then use a hammer and pound it out. To install use washers and a lug nut and tight until its fully seated. Front same thing iirc for non abs.

Could always use a quick spool valve.

Forsale sections. I made the front sump one work but I don't recommend it.