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Unless you bought the plates from JBL you didn't get a cooler plate. So its not really a need to worry. I did it fairly easily when I had the trans out; But thats about it unless you have the engine out I think.

Take it to somewhere else other then the dealer and see what they say. The rear diff I also find a very hard time believeing would fail you for inspection...

Well, it turned out me and a buddy wrestled it off the engine with the floor jack and brute force; it wasn't hard at all, the trans balanced very well on the jack even after the trans slid a little bit while pulling it out. Not much effort was needed from my friend to keep it upright while I...

MDC is away for now :( I reciently spoke to him about the CT-26 shim kit and he informed me about it. I just spent way too much money on the SST for it. Better safe then sorry I believe. For the future though I'll ask MDC. On a better note though, so far getting everything out and getting...

Hi guys, a couple things I need really fast: -I've dont nearly everything to install a new clutch, only old piece left is the pilot bearing. Unfortunately, I do not have the SST needed for removing it. When you push on it and spin (as per TSRM) you can feel roughness in it (like slightly flat...

Thats exactly wht I was thinking a little while ago today. Accept I wanted to have them roll somehowso I could just pull it right out. A skateboard came to mind... but I'm not cool enough to own one even.

I just hacked away at the bolts until I got it. It's extremely difficult and somewhat painful to get the one side of it. I just used an open ended wrench and felt my way around to the bolt. Both I believe I had to get from under the intake manifold reaching all the way around it.

Hey guys, I'm replacing my clutch and I've got everything down accept jacking up the transmission to start to remove it. I was going to use my floor jack origionally but I realize now that it is very risky. Doing the differential with it was dificult. I was wondering if there was any way other...

Small hands can get the cooler out :)

It looks like the ISC valve. Heres the diagram. http://cygnusx1.net/supra/techtip/graphics/coolantflush_1h.gif

From what I understand the RSR is even slightly more loud then my NUR Spec, which is pretty dang loud no matter what your doing; with 3" all the way back and no cats. I love it though :) If your looking for a quiet cruiser, I would recommend the Tanabe.

He has already said that he has some coming on the way. First things 1st, I would eliminate all those codes. If you didn't know yet here's what they all pretain to: 24- AFM (IAT) sensor, try to get a new AFM and make 100% sure that its plugged in all the way. Not having a properly working...

I think it has to do with the fact that you could (if you needed/wanted to for some reason) put the PP back on exactly the way it came off to eleviate variables in problem solving. And also possibly to reduce vibration creted by them not being lines up like they were factory?

You would have problems with slipping; since the clutch disk is already seated for the factory disk I don't know if it would accept the new perfectly flat flywheel surface.

Pretty impressive... On that Jiffy lube note; there is no way that even they screwed it up that much. Like someone else said it would have needed 2 additional oil changes to get that much in there and neither time it was drained? I don't think so.

It is possible. You'd need the kit with the LCD screen and have a trusted buddy watch it real close while you drive; I suppose. You'll only be able to display A/F boost, EGT, and one other optional input. IIRC you can wire it to watch the AFM correct?

Mine also does something similar; when its stone cold it takes some cranking to get it started; but its always perfectly consistant. Then after its hot, until its gets fairly cold again it will fire right nearly instantly. (assuming no heat soke) If you find the thread tlo post it back here or...

Wow... that is some pretty impressive stuff you've got going on there. Congrats!

Hey guys, I reciently bought a new Al driveshaft and on the end that plugs into the trans the outside seems to have been a nicely polished type surface. When I got the new one it was the same way, however the extreme humidity around my area at this time has made the end begin to get surface rust...

I would put my money on the fact that its up on stands for now. I do not see any noticeable difference, however, when you put it back down you'll see for sure how flexable teh chassis actually is without a bar if it bolts right up.