It's not "betraying" anyone. Its the mentality that comes up with these pathetic reasons to swap out. "Oh, I can't make my 100+k mile motor work right, I'm just going to give up and buy a less mileage motor which will probably break as well once it reaches the miles my 7M had."
Thats why I...
I think you're going to just be waiting until you hook whatever stuff you took out back up. Using the starter is super easy and it take like 2 min to get it off start to finish. I'd reccomend that.
Personally I would put it in the collector, so you're getting more then just a single cylinder's EGT.
As for oil temp, easiest and reversable way it to get a GReddy oil block adapter like I did.
^ very true...
On the cam gear discussion. Would it be wise, since my head has been milled and a stock gasket replaced, to get a set of adjustable gears and set the cams back to factory specs according on lining up the TDC marks? Would it effect my reliability or performance in any way?
It is insanely expensive to get the manifold ported as well. Not worth it in the long run.
extrude honing is like 600 buck too.
For a power goal like that I would not be using anything short of a full kit like HPF or any of the full SP kits.
NGK Iridium 1 range colder. NGK says 1 range colder for every 75-100 HP more you have over stock, use that to judge the heat range.
I'd reccomend against platinum unless the car is bone stock.
I got it covered :) Just happen to have a camera and the book right next to me.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/mkIIIman89/HyperREV001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/mkIIIman89/HyperREV002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v412/mkIIIman89/HyperREV003.jpg...
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