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spec for manifold warpage. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/em/EM_49.html

I think JJ was interested in taking one apart. I have never seen any info on how they work.

The sender unit on the engine block is a switch to ground. The power comes from the 12V supply line (Gauge Fuse) which is connected to one side of the dashboard gauge. The other side of the oil pres. gauge connects to the sender unit...

Read step 3 "inspect sender gauge operation". Note how you use a light bulb and count the number of pulses. The sender is a switch that is pulse modulated depending on oil pressure. It is an INPUT to the ECU. I quote: "the number of flashes should vary with engine speed", There is no...

Correct, goes to the stock BOV.

The oil pressure gauge is not a resistive type. It uses mechanical pulse modulation (check the TSRM for details). The ECU does use oil pressure as an input variable. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/Wiring/pages/Page_048.html

Here's one for an 89. Can't find my own 90T sticker though... it's only been 16 years!

Only the right front rivet has an issue, and only if the head has been machined. The other rivets clear the block and head.

For the CSI, remove the two nuts that hold it to the plenum, and pull it down a few inches. Then you have a little bit of room to get the plug on. Its a real PITA. Make sure you have a new gasket if you are going to do this.

Most likely the 90 deg rubber hose. Get those really big 45 degree pliers from Harbor Freight. They can reach in far enough to grab the hose spring clip ears. Another possibility is the gasket between the coolant bypass hard line and the thermostat block.

Not usually. It comes off easily on most cars, but a few of them are tight and need a steering wheel puller (the type with bolts that thread into the gear). The 7M timing gear has two threaded holes for this purpose.

Plan to replace the oil drive and cam seals as well while you are there.

I am pretty sure that the coolant passage is completely isolated from the seal in the turbo. This question has come up before and the answer has been that the only way to leak coolant internally in the turbo is if the housing is cracked. I'm certainly willing to concede if someone has proof...

90 Turbo. They are all the same though.

check CPS o-ring and cam seals.

They look reasonable. If its a BHG then its small right now. Get the coolant checked for combustions byproducts (NAPA sells a cheap kit) or get someone with an emissions sniffer to see if he can see any byproducts coming out of your radiator. If its clean then you have a leak somewhere else.

I like to use MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner.You can get it at any Chrysler dealer. Leave it on overnight and the carbon dissolves away. Smells really bad.

LMAO!

The 7M uses buckets and shims. Nothing to go flat I'm afraid! A knock means either a valve is stuck for some reason, or massive wear in the valvetrain (most likely the cam bearings).

Did you rebuild the bottom end? Was it knocking before you started all this work? I am confused! Rod knock doesn't happen with the car parked in the garage, unless, you have a crankcase full of coolant from a BHG corroding the bearings.