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Adjuster, under max load I believe it is not possible to operate in the stratified charge method where injection occurs immediately before ignition. Instead, the charge is loaded thoughout the intake stroke to allow for a uniform A/F throughout the combustion chamber.

The filters on the cam covers approach clog up quickly and then you are done. That is not the correct way to do it. You can drain the catch can back to your sump, that is how Volvo does it on many of their production cars (they call it an oil separator). I would agree that its better if...

Also, these still use spark ignition, they are not compression ignition like a Diesel. And the main advantage is under very light load when they run super lean. At high load they are not much different from regular injection (both inject on the intake stroke).

Hey, this is a Toyota board.... 4GRFSE

Compression test would tell you something about the condition of the valves and rings. I would start with that.

Check your PM!

jazz- fair enough. My point was only that you better have a plan to torque it back up that includes a big torque wrench and a way to keep the crank locked. BTW with the gas pipe extension even a weakling like me can get it to come off!

Those bolts and studs are pretty cheap from Toyota. You probably noticed the nuts have internal locking mechanisms, stuff you can't really get easily from your local shop.

You can just tell your machine shop to do it, if you're sending it in for other work.

Put the car in 5th gear, chock the wheels, get an impact socket, breaker bar, and a 3 foot piece of black gas pipe to use as an extension. The bolt will come loose with a loud crack! You will need a torque wrench good to 197ft-lbs to put it back on. The problem with the starter approach is...

Lots of good info here. One thing that I struggle with is crimping multiple wires together (3 or more). The crimp butt connectors are usually symmetric, so that either the side with one wire is too loose or the side with two wires is too tight. As I said earlier, Toyota does this by stuffing...

Thanks for the help everyone. I have the HKS Turbo D2 cat back and it connects fine to the stock cat/downpipe setup. The new downpipe is shorter such that if I connect it to the front cat hanger it is misaligned by 1.4 inches to the hanger on the body. My options seem to be to make a 1.4 inch...

IJ is right I'm pretty sure. I recall that it was around 4 inches, which is closer to 160mm than 116mm. Its been posted before but I can't find the thread. Anyway, clamp some calipers on it and it will be pretty obvious.

116.00 (or is it 160 like IJ says??? ) when uncut from the factory.

I finally got around to installing my 3" downpipe and elbow, and have run into a problem at the connection to the front of the cat. The downpipe appears to be about 1 inch too short, so that when I bolt it to the stock hanger/cat everything gets pulled forward and up, and fitment is poor...

116mm from deck to cam cover mount. I'm doing this from memory so I hope I remembered correctly!

There are part number differences between the TWC and TWT auto trans models (Valve body for example).

18 / 14.50377 = 1.24 bar

You can get all this stuff from mouser.com. By the way, for best reliability of the butt connectors, get the mil ones with a window so that you can guarantee the wires are fully inserted. They cost a quite a bit more, but are still cheap relatively speaking. Did you know that there are butt...

As someone said, it may be for the EGR temp sensor on california cars.