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Time to take it apart again. You will leak oil and coolant without that sealer. Do a search if you don't believe me. Sorry.

Reading through there seems to be two issue: a) idles rough when hot b) missing under peak load a) Idle good when cold, rough when warm. -> idle A/F is much leaner hot when the system is closed loop, therefore could your problems not be fuel related rather than ignition related ? b) missing...

Looks like they may have changed plugs, probably during the 89 model year. What year is yours? Does it look like connector Z here? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=66 To bypass the sensor module, you would jump pins 4 and 10 (green and green-red...

Well, your understanding of the VSV for the FPR is correct. Looks like you've replaced pretty near all the components that could cause trouble starting. I assume among the relays you swapped included the EFI main relay. I didn't see the igniter mentioned in your list. Its certainly a good...

Here is a writeup on repairng the sensor module http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=54

The misnamed "kickdown" cable is pretty expensive. I think it is over $120 from Toyota, and to replace it you have to drop the transmission pan and valve body. So your estimate doesn't sound completely off to me. Replacing the side oil seals in the diff is not too bad, but you will need a slide...

Bad: Thanks for the scan. Excellent information. +1 for you.

Thanks for posting that. Looks like a pre-89 TSRM. Can you tell me how to use the DIAG for the ABS and cruise control? My ABS comes up -00 rather than -OK. As far as I know, to get the ABS to go into diagnostic mode, you have to disconnect the check connector on the actuator underneath the...

This is all I can find. Seems like there is no scans of an 86-88 owner's manual out there that I could find.

I would check your VSV that controls the FPR reference vacuum hose. That VSV is there specifically to mitigate hot-soak starting problems. Its the closest one to the front under the intake manifold. The one at the back is for EGR.

Does anyone have a scan of the owner's manual (86-88) detailing the operation of the Supermonitor? I just got mine installed in my 90 and most of the functions seems pretty obvioous, but the diagnostics function is not so clear. Quite a PITA to install by the way. If anyone wants my wiring...

Thanks for the confirmation. I wrecked the first seal by getting it tilted. Second one went in straight and seems to have cured my dripping differential.

I'm replacing the side axle seals on the differential. Does anyone know if the seals should be driven all the way until they botttom out? This seems to put them a good 6mm below the top of the seal bore. Or should I tap them in until they are flush with the bore?

This is an old 1998 MOPAR app note for installing a MLS in the field. Note the recommendation to use MOPAR gasket sealant. This may be an option to the copper spray. The sealant is still available. SUBJECT: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) Head Gasket Installation Procedures NO: 09-05-98 GROUP...

everything you ever wanted to know about fuel pumps.... http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/fuel_pumps_test_2/

Don't bother trying to get Viton off with solvents, its very resistant. Mechanical is probably your best bet. If it was me, I would leave it on unless it is visibly damaged. Viton® fluoroelastomer is the most specified fluoroelastomer, well known for its excellent (400°F/200°C) heat...

The stock Supra color Black Ruby Pearl has red flakes in it. Paint code is 206 I think.

Yeah, a quick search shows everything from 1.0 to 1.4 mm. I'm sticking with 1.0 mm since my numbers add up to that. I was pretty sure I saw a post where IJ said 1.0mm, but now I can't find it. Oh well!

Jdub, are you sure about the stock gasket being 1.37mm? I remember micing it and getting more like 1.2mm, and I think IJ said it was 1mm compressed. Anyway, I installed the thinnest Cometic MLS gasket (0.051"=1.30mm) and had .25mm total removed from the head and block. My measured...

No torque-to-yield head bolts on any M series engine.