Bishop, how sure are you the pumps are the same? Prior to VIN -0153210 there are two different part numbers for the pumps. (GE 23220-70170, GTE 23221-50020) listed in the EPC.
For VIN 0153210- they all show the same part (23221-50020).
Are the bearing cap saddles scored? The journals almost always look bad because they has a soft babbit-like coating that scores easily. The saddles should be absolutely perfect though.
If you stripped one of the threads for the bearing caps then that head is done. I do not believe it is...
Munk, I edited my post to tone it down... got a bit carried away, sorry about that. If you can, find an M3 with SMG and try it out. Definitely not like anything you will have driven before.
The SMG stands for sequential *manual* gearbox. It is not tiptronic at all. Its a manual gearbox with an electro-hydraulically actuated clutch and shift forks.
Tiptronic is a conventional automatic with a torque converter and planetary gear set. It is nothing more than an automatic with...
SMG can be full manual, or full auto. I don't see your point. The only lazy part about it is the clutch which is hydraulically actuated for you with various selectable programs of engagement speed.
LOL! He presumably means the choke coil. Its a low pass filter to knock out RF signals picked up by the defroster grid on the back window. The opposite of an amplifier really! See here for details....
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=Main&Page=084
With a cold engine, it should stop roaring after about 30 seconds after starting. If it sounds like an 18-wheeler all the time with a cold engine (temp gauge showing engine is not at operating temp) then its defective. Take it back and get another one.
If the fan is roaring constantly and the engine is cold, then you have a problem. Most likely too much oil in the clutch if you repaired it yourself.
When you start the engine cold you should clearly hear the fan roaring with a fast idle, then after maybe 15-30 seconds the noise dies away...
I suspect you still have a lot of oil trapped inside it. You need to flush it out and start fresh. There are a few silicone oil solvents out there, but you might try brake cleaner to start as I have heard it will work (YMMV).
It is possible the bearing is gone, and it may be simpler just to...
Is it a uniform noise?
From you original post you seemed to say the caliper was moving back and forth which is a runout issue. Since the rotors are new this should not be the case.
There is really only a few reasons you might have runout.
1) The hub is damaged (not very likely)
2)...
Order the 91-92 bump stops. They are half the price. Lots of places to order parts online. Try http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 or http://www.trdparts4u.com/oem_parts.html
You need the lug nuts to hold the disk flat to the hub. If you rely just on that single little nut with the point then it may not be flat on the hub, especially if you just put the disks on.
Crimping done right is reliable.
Note that the crimps that just crush a tube around the wire with a $10 crimp tool are not what the manufacturers are using.
You want a fastener and crimp tool and that folds the metal tabs of the fastener over the wire to form a gas tight connection. The...
If your plug leaks and it is torqued properly with a fresh gasket, then you most likely have the problem MrNickelEye mentioned.
The plug threads are welded to the inside of pan, and have a gap at the bottom for oil to pass through (shine a light into the drain hole and you will see what I am...
The bimetal strip will not wear out, but it can break. Also, the shaft can seize up due to corrosion.
Dark brown fluid would worry me. My stuff was clear when I opened it up. Maybe it overheated?
The correct amount for a bone dry clutch is 3 bottles. For mine, when I refilled I just attempted to drain the old oil out by gravity for a few hours. Then I put 3 bottles in and it was 'on' all the time hot or cold. Used a syringe to get 18mL out and now it works fine.
I assume I didn't get...
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