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On a turbo engine, the faster you can get the exhaust out, the better. You may not NEED a 4" exhaust, but if you plan on making big power at some point, I'd just jump right to 4"

MDC wins.

Even if it WAS crush bent, it would be head and shoulders above a 3" mandrel system as long as the bends were kept to a minimum. But he mentioned he found bends at a diesel shop, and they're always mandrel. Go for it man, post up some HQ vids when you're done. It'll be awesome.

lmao jav! california can be last, because it's the longest state. I want to know what this is about...

I'm addicted to checking it at work, because it's much more enjoyable than staring off into the shop....

Yeah, thanks for mentioning that MKIIINA. It's definitely NOT a Master Power turbo. If it was, I'd say go for it, but it's not.... That's a no-go for me. Jon: can you still get MP turbos?

I doubt Allan's car is running... he's got a lot of plumbing to do with that dry sump tank, not to mention placement of the tank itself... yeesh. If anything, I'd destroke a 7M to make it closer to square. SP!(2): IIRC, 5M crank and Rods should do the trick...

oh yes, how very subtle... i love it! I had to stare at the rear bumper to know what was going on. I still want to shorten mine, and bring it closer to the body so it doesn't stick out so damn far...

oh yes. that's wonderful.

jeffy: you n00b...

Yeah, I guess it's not a big deal at all. I wouldn't hone out the hub on the pulley at all.... I'm just curious as to how well it'll come off when the time comes.... Thanks for the info, though, man... definitely good to back up what you say with what the manufacturer suggests... :bigthumb...

Eh, probably not a good idea unless you clean out the piping.. they're all carbon coated inside.. PVC works great as long as you take the finished product before you install it, and get some exhaust tubing that has the same OD as the PVC's ID, and press it in the inside of the PVC pipe. That...

discuss.

oh god yes.. I didn't even see that. Now prove us right Jake! Get that pup running.

Matt: nice try ;) jk, if those are the wheels you're gunning for, definitely do it! they're so nice... Those Work's are one of like 5 wheels that I want badly. Now I just have to make up my mind... oh, and save lots of money... lol

Loosen the bolts on the tie rod and ball joints, and a solid smack to the knuckle should release the tie rod, if not a few more. The same goes for the control arms. A few solid hits downward on the lower arm should free it, and the upper, i'd be more careful with. it's aluminum, and expensive...

/\ I agree.

Well then, I bet it's because it didn't settle after you let it down. Roll it forward about 10' then back and it should be settled out.

lmao. my apologies.... thumbnailed!

Pressure diverted oil to a cooler is stupid. Oil makes pressure easier when it's cold, so what sense does that make? Temp controlled bypass is the only way to go.