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That's be awesome. Thanks.

I run +25 front. Never rubs with fender with a slightly stretch tire. +15 is doable but it will most likely require super stretched tires or a pull. Have a little stretch is not bad and get rid of any sidewall flex. 275 was perfect on 10" wheel. 265 was slightly stretched and 255 has a little...

I'm using them without cutting the wires. Just curious to what everyone's setting for it was.

I run redline 5w30. I like it. Used to run the gc but redline is easier to get.

I use redline mt90. Fixed my second gear from grinding on a downshift.

^very nice. Anyone using the stock toyota isc with 12v?

The toothed wheel is part of the crank gear. That is not a sealing part. The main seal is the seal and seals against the crankshaft.

The spikey ring is the toothed wheel for the crank sensor. It does not seal oil. The crankshaft front main seal is behind that and if recently done and could have been installed incorrectly.

The driveshaft is not engine specific. It's transmission specific. The r154 driveshaft you have will work. The auto one will not.

You could pull the fenders but will prolly chip the paint.

I don't believe our factory Ecu can handle the wideband sensor input.

Well I don't live in a dirt field.

That is what mine looks like. The aem dry flow filters are awesome. Been using mine for about a year and a half and it still looks new.

Except there is not 12v on the knock sensor wire. The sensor makes a very small amount of voltage when it hears a knock. It's a resonant type knock sensor. Also by doing a continuity test and seeing the amount the wire ohms out to you would be able to see if that wire has unwanted resistance...

The shielding wire around the knock sensor could be bad. Id do the rewire and then go from there. Highly unlikely that the Ecu is bad. Also did you clear the codes and then re check after replacing the knock sensor?

Better to have the dip stick pop out then one of the mains. ;) If this is a 7m I would check the make sure the baffles in the valve covers are clear and the port in the throttle body is clear. And the hose that goes from block to valve cover by the alternator.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?153102-Your-1JZ-GTE-And-2JZ-GTE-Swap-Guide-For-Dummies That has almost everything as far as parts. It's stickied in the top of this section along with wiring info and such.

Yes. Stock piece has rubber seals on it. Might be able to just use fipg on both sides of the stainless one along with some on the threads.

Do they have different pn? If different part numbers then yes they are different. Gte need more flow because of the turbos and oil squirters.

Why would anyone do this. Just look a for a used switch in the for sale section and post in the wtb section.