I wouldn't go through the fuss of burping it. Just heat cycle it a couple more times with the heater on 85 (doesn't even have to have the fan running to keep it open).
Sometimes if a hose springs a leak the system will lose its air tight erm...ness. and it can come up as the problem you are having.
Either way, its probably not a big deal.
You'll have to point out these coolant lines running to the EGR plate to me.
It's probably a leak somewhere near the back of the motor. (duh)
You normally induce leaks on purpose? Normally (at least for me) they seem to start all by themselves, lol.
(after everything is reassembled, with CPS bolt loose)
-Jump Te1 and E1 in the diagnostic block (locks in timing, no ECU input)
-Clamp timing light pickup to #1 plug wire.
-start engine
-point timing light at the scale on the lower timing cover
-find where the notch in the crank pulley is...
The downside to vac bleeding setups is that if there are any air leaks around the bleeder itself it will constantly be drawing air in. You could bleed forever and it would still look full of air.
Pumping is still the best way to ensure all the air is out IMO.
eman - if you had come back earlier it would have been even hotter. Before I put in my e-fan I would easily see 115-120C 10 minutes after I shut the car down on a hot day. Totally normal.
PS - 1 min 30 is WAY WAY overkill to let the car idle.
Wilwood clutch pedal? Sounds like you've got something pretty impressive going there...
Unfortunately without taking it apart what your looking for is going to be pretty hard to find, I think.
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