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False.

Okay so to type out what happened one a computer that won't delete my response. A little history, the car was running rich afr's with the 440cc injectors and 34 psi base pressure but was running very lean in boost with 550cc injectors on the same psi. So I determined it wasn't a pressure...

This droid just deleted everything i typed. i will go further into detail when im at my computer. short story is i solved my lean while in boost problem.

Surprising for 350 hp.

Applying vacuum to the wastegate actuator would do nothing as it's the PSI that moves it. If your WGA is moving properly but you're not building boost, I'd say your BOV/IC pipes is leaking. There's no way to say you don't have a boost leak without doing a boost leak test by pressurizing your...

We don't have a pcv valve, we just have positive crankcase vents.

Let us know if this does solve your problem.

Oh but hearing one with a set of cams and a valvetrain upgrade running close to 8k rpms is heavenly.

Reasons? Who needs to give you more than one.. Listen to the way a built 7m sounds..

Holding the gas at a certain point with it idle hunting sounds like the tps is calibrated incorrectly. Whats the compression across all the cylinders? Is your PCV in good working order? Is the hose going from the block to the valve covers blocked or kinked at all?

I can do that too Rollus, except mines way before yours.

One thread please. What is his oil pressure while cranking? Has he done anything to maybe hook something back up wrong?

Ive thought about taking that one step further and installing a breaker for the fuel pump itself and hiding it. if someone knows anything about the car, checking fuses might be a first. if you hid a breaker under the passenger rear seat or something it would never be found.

No sign of oil on plugs, no oil in water or vise versa and the engine doesn't overheat. This right here determines the health of the engine obviously isn't in 'poor' condition.

Are you positive you're only moving it one tooth?

Last I looked, code 34 is abnormal turbo pressure aka fuel cut.

With the light over heating, remember it's only an aluminum head. Make sure the head is still flat and don't forget to test the hardness of the head. As for changing the top and bottom end, ask yourself this. Do you really want to cheap out and have the worst case scenario by having to rebuild...

QSV with no2 into the turbo inlet to help it spool? All jokes aside, I do think a QSV and a better manifold with more uniform flow would help pick up a few hundred rpms.

Ah, I wasn't sure. Thanks.

Forgive me if this is wrong as I'm not so sure about 1j's, but for 7m's, pulling fuel doesn't raise fuel cut. Fuel cut is the amount of air is greater than the ecu has a map for so the injectors can't keep up.