This droid just deleted everything i typed. i will go further into detail when im at my computer.
short story is i solved my lean while in boost problem.
short story is i solved my lean while in boost problem.
Lean issue in boost
- Thread starter IndigoMKII
- Start date
Okay so to type out what happened one a computer that won't delete my response.
A little history, the car was running rich afr's with the 440cc injectors and 34 psi base pressure but was running very lean in boost with 550cc injectors on the same psi. So I determined it wasn't a pressure problem but a volume problem. I decided to flow test the fuel pump and it took forever to transfer a gallon to my container. I purchased a walbro 400 from driftmotion thinking my walbro 255 was dying, so I went to drop the tank and couldn't find anything I needed. The jack I was looking for, couldn't find. I found the jack and the jackstands disappeared, so I knew this wasn't going to go smoothly. Finally got the car up on bricks with the front wheels using bricks on both sides.
Got under the fuel tank of the car only to find that none of the bolts wanted to play nicely. So far, jacking up the car and getting fuel out of the tank was being more of a trouble than they should of been, now the bolts were being troublesome. So I went to advanced and picked up a can of pb blaster. Sprayed all the bolts to let them do their work while I got the fuel out of the tank. Well, pulled the fuel line and turned the pump on only to notice that the fuel rate was slowing down the longer I had the pump on, great. I went back and decided to just drop the tank with it being nearly full, bolts still wouldn't budge, so I said fuck it and went to sleep, this was at 9pm.
Next day after work I came home and got under the car again, with a 1/2 ratchet this time. Got all the bolts loose and dropped the tank. Pulled off the fuel sender unit and discovered the walbro's sock was brown and had rust EVERYWHERE on the sock. Ugh, turned on a flashlight and sure enough everywhere in the tank had rust particles, inbetween the baffles and near the pick up for the fuel pump. Turns out the walbro wasn't getting weak but it was being starved for fuel.
I have noticed that the walbro 400 does sit on the fuel pump hanger quite easily so modifying then hanger won't be needed. I will however be buying murac acid to clean the tank with as well as eastwood fuel tank sealer kit.
I also have some pictures to compare the size difference between 255 and 400 also of the walbro 255 pickup sock to show how dirty it is.
A little history, the car was running rich afr's with the 440cc injectors and 34 psi base pressure but was running very lean in boost with 550cc injectors on the same psi. So I determined it wasn't a pressure problem but a volume problem. I decided to flow test the fuel pump and it took forever to transfer a gallon to my container. I purchased a walbro 400 from driftmotion thinking my walbro 255 was dying, so I went to drop the tank and couldn't find anything I needed. The jack I was looking for, couldn't find. I found the jack and the jackstands disappeared, so I knew this wasn't going to go smoothly. Finally got the car up on bricks with the front wheels using bricks on both sides.
Got under the fuel tank of the car only to find that none of the bolts wanted to play nicely. So far, jacking up the car and getting fuel out of the tank was being more of a trouble than they should of been, now the bolts were being troublesome. So I went to advanced and picked up a can of pb blaster. Sprayed all the bolts to let them do their work while I got the fuel out of the tank. Well, pulled the fuel line and turned the pump on only to notice that the fuel rate was slowing down the longer I had the pump on, great. I went back and decided to just drop the tank with it being nearly full, bolts still wouldn't budge, so I said fuck it and went to sleep, this was at 9pm.
Next day after work I came home and got under the car again, with a 1/2 ratchet this time. Got all the bolts loose and dropped the tank. Pulled off the fuel sender unit and discovered the walbro's sock was brown and had rust EVERYWHERE on the sock. Ugh, turned on a flashlight and sure enough everywhere in the tank had rust particles, inbetween the baffles and near the pick up for the fuel pump. Turns out the walbro wasn't getting weak but it was being starved for fuel.
I have noticed that the walbro 400 does sit on the fuel pump hanger quite easily so modifying then hanger won't be needed. I will however be buying murac acid to clean the tank with as well as eastwood fuel tank sealer kit.
I also have some pictures to compare the size difference between 255 and 400 also of the walbro 255 pickup sock to show how dirty it is.
at least you got it figured out. I would be curious to know how that muric acid and tank sealer works.
Well, I went by Lowes and picked up a gallon of Muriatic acid. I'll also be getting the eastwood fuel tank sealer. I won't be following these step by step but it's pretty close.
"Procedure: Gasoline Tank Cleaning
Muriatic Acid (or Acetone) is generally used for fuel tank cleaning. It can be procured from pool supply stores. Like any other acid, care should be taken while handling muriatic acid as well. Take care that you undertake the cleaning of the gasoline tank in open air as breathing it is hazardous. When using muriatic acid, remember to use thick rubber hand-gloves and glasses to protect your eyes from the acid fumes. Now that all the primary precautions have been taken care of, lets start with the tank cleaning procedure.
Flush out the Contents: Empty the tank of all its contents. You will not be able to remove the tank without emptying it. Make sure you drain out gasoline from all the components, like rubber hoses, petcock, etc., as well.
Clean the Tank: Use new gasoline and clean the tank thoroughly. This is a part of the pre-cleaning process. You can also shake the tank vigorously with gasoline in it. This will help in dislodging the particles from the farthest corners of the tank. Then, empty the tank in a separate container.
Hot Water and Acid Cleaning: Now is the real cleaning step. You will need hot water as much as the capacity of the fuel tank. Fill the tank to half its capacity with hot water. Remember the muriatic acid we just spoke about? Its time to add it to the hot water. You will have to add approximately half a gallon of the acid to the water. Then add in the remaining hot water in the tank. Close the gas tank with a cap, but make sure you do not use the tank cap. Do not disturb the tank for about 2 to 21/2 hours. Let the entire mixture settle in the tank.
Dispose off the Mixture: Empty the gasoline tank of the mixture. The mixture contains muriatic acid, hence, be careful while doing so. It is suggested not to dispose off the mixture down a drain or in the dustbin.
Clean with Water: Now clean the tank with water thoroughly. You can use a hand pump to spray water in the tank. The pressure of the hand pump will reach to every nook and corner of the tank, thus cleaning it in the process. There can be several rounds of cleaning with water.
Dry the Tank: The next step is to dry the tank well. You can use a hair dryer for the same. It means a lot of work. But if you leave the tank to dry on its own, it will take longer. You can use the hair dryer to dry the tank, as the warm air will reach well inside the tank. This is an important step, as gasoline will be filled in the tank soon afterwards.
Gasoline Rinsing: After you have dried the tank, rinse the tank well with gasoline. This is the last step in the gasoline tank cleaning procedure.
Fill gasoline in the tank: Attach all the components, which you have removed in the first step. Keep a small quantity of gasoline ready, so that the vehicle reaches the gasoline pump station. Now, do not waste any time and refill the tank back with gasoline. It is important to refill immediately, as the tank can start rusting again. "
"Procedure: Gasoline Tank Cleaning
Muriatic Acid (or Acetone) is generally used for fuel tank cleaning. It can be procured from pool supply stores. Like any other acid, care should be taken while handling muriatic acid as well. Take care that you undertake the cleaning of the gasoline tank in open air as breathing it is hazardous. When using muriatic acid, remember to use thick rubber hand-gloves and glasses to protect your eyes from the acid fumes. Now that all the primary precautions have been taken care of, lets start with the tank cleaning procedure.
Flush out the Contents: Empty the tank of all its contents. You will not be able to remove the tank without emptying it. Make sure you drain out gasoline from all the components, like rubber hoses, petcock, etc., as well.
Clean the Tank: Use new gasoline and clean the tank thoroughly. This is a part of the pre-cleaning process. You can also shake the tank vigorously with gasoline in it. This will help in dislodging the particles from the farthest corners of the tank. Then, empty the tank in a separate container.
Hot Water and Acid Cleaning: Now is the real cleaning step. You will need hot water as much as the capacity of the fuel tank. Fill the tank to half its capacity with hot water. Remember the muriatic acid we just spoke about? Its time to add it to the hot water. You will have to add approximately half a gallon of the acid to the water. Then add in the remaining hot water in the tank. Close the gas tank with a cap, but make sure you do not use the tank cap. Do not disturb the tank for about 2 to 21/2 hours. Let the entire mixture settle in the tank.
Dispose off the Mixture: Empty the gasoline tank of the mixture. The mixture contains muriatic acid, hence, be careful while doing so. It is suggested not to dispose off the mixture down a drain or in the dustbin.
Clean with Water: Now clean the tank with water thoroughly. You can use a hand pump to spray water in the tank. The pressure of the hand pump will reach to every nook and corner of the tank, thus cleaning it in the process. There can be several rounds of cleaning with water.
Dry the Tank: The next step is to dry the tank well. You can use a hair dryer for the same. It means a lot of work. But if you leave the tank to dry on its own, it will take longer. You can use the hair dryer to dry the tank, as the warm air will reach well inside the tank. This is an important step, as gasoline will be filled in the tank soon afterwards.
Gasoline Rinsing: After you have dried the tank, rinse the tank well with gasoline. This is the last step in the gasoline tank cleaning procedure.
Fill gasoline in the tank: Attach all the components, which you have removed in the first step. Keep a small quantity of gasoline ready, so that the vehicle reaches the gasoline pump station. Now, do not waste any time and refill the tank back with gasoline. It is important to refill immediately, as the tank can start rusting again. "
I forgot to add, I will also be taking pictures of all the steps just incase someone wants to try this on their tank, if it turns out well.