should be as simple as remove, replace, plasti gauge, shim and drive away. well maybe not simple but shouldn't be to hard. just remember to plasti gauge the camshaft caps and compare specs to the TSRM,
well drilling it is the gentle way. a slide hammer sometime will get it out, or you can melt it out with a torch. but the slide hammer and torch normal mean the column is fubared afterwards.
Sikaflex®-291 is a one-component, low viscous, medium modulus, polyurethane-based sealing/adhesive compound.
sold in boat stores, so i know its waterproof :D
without damaging the rest of the colom so it can be replaced, is drill into the lock use a small bit then go slightly bigger. once the pins are drilled out or fall out, use a hook pick to pull them out if there not all the way out. a flat blade should be able to move it to the accessory position...
wow. almost looks like someone left a feeler gauge finger behind. but what ij said. put the tranny or a bellhousing on and comp check it. if its the area in red it doesnt look to critical, looks far enough away from the bore and the jackets, but looks like it ripped out around the dowl on the...
ok thats the wrong tag, its a silver tag that rivted on, should be just above the brake booster.
---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ----------
tag should look like this
if its burnt that not good a good sign. sounds like the friction discs are worn out and slipping. but do check the electronics first as its easy. after that pull the pan off and see how much junk is on the bottom of the pan (clutch dust)
the 3 prong plug is to excite the coil inside the alt and run the regulator. the alt needs power before i can make power. so check the plug and the wires.
yes they do. the 1990 ish v6 4 runner. the line outputs are in a diff spot, so you have to re bend the lines. ill have to check but im 90% certain its a direct bolt on to the booster, ill measure one up at the junkyard tommorow
they also had a real goofy abs system that used the power...
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