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Most people on here wouldn't have that issue. But that doesn't change the fact that the bov won't hold any amount of power. I agree with you on the mounting ring, but the sound can easily be changed by just removing the whistle. There is also a fine line w/ the tial bov letting out SO much air...

Fuck. The car would probably be faking it too.

I'd vote for Innovate again if I could.

I'd hide these too: http://members.optushome.com.au/suprapics2/reassembly47.jpg http://members.optushome.com.au/suprapics2/reassembly46.jpg

You thought so? I never really did, kinda thought it was a little spongy. (Yeah, I had a NEW stock clutch after the first one.)

Why? The AFC has up to a full minute to play back your readings. :)

Thank-you for posting real world data. (the whole goal of this thread.) What's really neat to watch is the knk numbers spike at full boost, then drop once the ECU pulls timing. If you do the digital view of 2-channels (Graphic display 【Function】 Pause and replay) You are able...

Not a bad price especially if the pipes were included and are complete. ** I paid more than twice that for a custom spearco core bar and plate IC, when you can get them these days for next to nothing. ** So yeah, you got yourself a deal. Pressure test it and make sure there are no leaks. ;)

Hah, that's funny. When I first installed my HKS Type-0 my connection to the e-brake was left off (on purpose, I wanted to see what it would do.) The car would turn right off. Double check your wiring, if you didn't use a harness.

It really grinds my gears when people are so dismissive on something they haven't even tried... it's always hearsay. If these numbers are completely random, then I guess the ECU is getting nothing but "random" numbers too. This wire is sending the same possibly variant numbers and making...

Sincerely doubt it.

So getting "0" when cruising and then numbers at full load is utterly useless?

Why does everyone in the world, but me, have the R's.... :rofl: I really want to see your dyno chart now. :D Good luck.

Voltage sensitive, like the wideband wouldn't work at all? I've had my LM-1 plugged into my CIG lighter for the past 3 years, no problems. I have read others having issues with that though.

When depressing the clutch to start the engine, the pressure from the input shaft, and pressure plate against the non-spinning crank can cause it to walk. I still haven't bypassed mine yet, I just reach down with my hand and press the button while cranking.

Yeah, as long as the harness is still there. The reason I asked, is that so many just unhook the 3 connectors from the ECU and ABS comp. then pull the harness out with the engine.

I think the AFC takes in any audible ping or knock spike (voltage?) from the sensor and displays it as raw data. The stock toyota computer sees this same data of course, and makes timing changes accordingly. I believe the real question is: "What does the stock computer determine as knock, and...

did you take the wiring harness out with the engine and trans?

16psi GT4088 6:30PM Max KNK value = 186 16psi GT4088 1:15AM Max KNK value = 177 The second pull at 1:15AM registered at 1964 hz in airflow, I did not remember to record the first pull :(. So far, I'd say these numbers make sense. With the decrease in temperature, the less my knock count was...

I wonder why that person said that. It's not like BOV's are all that complicated. The vacuum/boost source on the opposite side of the valve is equal pressure to that of pressure on the inside of the valve. The HKS shouldn't have a problem sustaining the boost to make...