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What you SHOULD do is retourque. It takes very little time, and you get familiar with the top of your motor, which is usually covered with so many "things" it's unreal. Then you get to see how the rubber piece between the 3000 pipe and the TB is, you can check/ change your plugs and wires, make...

How's that rebuild treating you? is that a 60-1 trim you have? or the big 62?

Grim, Our squirters are a sring loaded check valve banjo bolt. The banjo bolt's check valve should open at roughly 20 psi to squirt oil. at idle, when pressure is around 10 psi in most 7ms, the squirters are closed. When the banjos get crud in them, they stick open. I highly recomend replacing...

The HKS doesn't filter, though. It looks nice, but it doesn't catch anything. and also, have you seen the surface area of the Apex-i? It's Tiny! Go with FIPK, or the $10 adapter and a K$N from your local auto parts store. Cold air is better, so open the snorkel hole, and build a heat shroud...

Or ask Kevin directly...

how long have you had the 24 and 31?

Nice color Loki. You dont see many dark blue '89s. Lookin good! Keep us updated.

I did the double nut on the bolt thing. It also works like a champ, and it's free ;) But if you must have a real tool for everything, you can buy that one, or go to sears and get one for pretty cheap with a lifetime warrenty.

I'd check the starter. Run a wire straight from the battery (make sure car is in nuetral) to the starter Clip-on starter post. If the starter is good, then it will crank, and run you over if it's in gear. If it doesn't crank, you need a new starter. As for the stalling, it could be the BOV, or...

Grim, are you pre 89 or post?

Are you asking for advise to make the turbo seal?

Thanks for the replies and the hard work, Doc. I've had terrible times with the ignition of the ems as well. and I've used everything from stock coils to ls1 coils, to cbr600-f4i coils. The best tune I found was with the cdi firing the cbr coilsticks. Playing around with coil factor was the...

Ok Adam, Here goes. I am running the typical MAFT, 3" MAF, AVC-R, S-AFC II combo. It runs great. With full fuel control from MAFT-pro, the TCCS is still trying to make the car run stoich under closed loop, "read most of the time." Does the MAFT pro have the capability to send the TCCS a fake...

You can replace the clutches, all of them should run about $250 from our local discount toyota dealers. It will be good as new, and also you can shim it a little to get a higher preload.

Allan I absolutely agree that standalone is the answer. But the Maft will easilly flow 600 rwhp, and is much less than the buy in for a standalone. IMO, EMS is the only way to go over here in the states. but for the "typical" 4-500 hp build, ems would have a ton of unused features. I have a 3"...

It looks Great Suze, Keep us informed of dyno results and we need videos!

Go with maft. FCD sucks. Lex needs 550s to work. MAFT rocks and can use any injectors from stock to 1600 cc.

Looking Good Shaeff! Get that thing on a dyno! The stock headbolts are not TTY. However, I wouldn't reuse them anyway.

Yes and Yes. HPF actually used my Trust header to make sure that there are NO fitment issues with their header, they also clocked the turbo a little differently than most of the greddy knock off headers so that you can run a 3.5 inch downpipe. Bigger exhaust, especially right off of the turbo...

So how steep of an angle is it from your compressor outlet to the IC plumbing, is it sharper than a 90?