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For a 7mgte, the ECU cuts fuel above 2k rpms while engine braking. Mine spits and pops on engine decel around 1800 rpms.

i find my lack of traction in second annoying if I'm trying to go somewhere

Fix the codes, all of them. If I was to unplug one of my KS on my car, I doubt I could even chirp second when I can normally roast second. Like I said earlier, if you think your car pulls hard now.. Wait til the codes are fixed ;)

Well, consider your original post. You're trying to take probably a stock 20+ year old non-turbo car and drive faster by shifting better. That's a technique that only you can learn and teach yourself. Some people will push the car out of gear without the clutch and catch the clutch in the motion...

lol jj, I thought the same.

If you think it pulled hard before, heh.

I've never ever had a set of pre-gap plugs that are the correct gap. Last 'pre-gap' plug I got for the car was set at .048"

Erm, the idle screw is preset from the factory. Touching that is a no no. Second, the igniter needs a good ground because it grounds through the case itself. Third, most multiplex systems will miss or pop at idle, granted some don't but most do. Since you're having troubles after idle...

Had one, pretty fun. N/a for N/a my mk2 p-type outran a 7mge 5 speed. The stock 5m is pretty quick up to 70 for its age but runs out of breath after that.

Good luck guys.

Did you follow the torque spec for the ARP bolts? They have an installation instruction sheet to torque them.

Same setup I'm using. I wondered when it would start to slip, cause it hasn't slipped on my current setup yet.

Still waiting on that dyno! lol

I didn't receive a dump pipe either when I purchased my wastegate..

What do you have for a means to control the injectors?

Uh? All this damn update and I wasn't informed!

Could be your EFI relay getting hot from cranking. How long do you have to crank before the car normally starts? On a side note, why not power your wideband screen from the cigarette lighter?

Well, timing should be 10 degrees BTDC. If you're receiving the code 34 and the CEL is flashing, that's not because the car is breaking up, it's an over-boost (Fuel cut) situation. Code 21 doesn't just appear because of a lot of fuel, these cars normally run 10's AFR during WOT in the stock form.

Not always.. Go out on your car and purposely make a vacuum leak, idle just raises due to raised fuel pressure. OP, check your ISCV.

Heh, MSD wires. You'd be better off to use the NGK wires from advanced. Have you checked all the basic stuff? Timing/boost leak etc etc