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ebay . i think they are out of print from toyota. http://cgi.ebay.ca/1991-Toyota-Supra-service-manual-factory-shop-ORIGINAL-/150549996431?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item230d7aa38f...

welded is a waste of time. the lsd is designed where if there is to much traction/diff bind it will let go to avoid breaking something. also alot of tracks now wont let welded diffs on the track, as its a saftey hazard if something breaks, as it can catapult the car in an IRS setup. as for...

can be done, but you need to fill the cylenders with air from a compresser via a fitting in the spark plug hole, or feed string in and rotate engine to mash it and hold the valves up. if you drop one it will have to come off. though if doing the springs, might be good idea to pop the head...

mine bounces from 160-180 on the street. it will go to 180, then drop to 160, go back to 180 etc. am running a 180 themostat

very nice!

either the flap isnt closing all the way, due to pcv/carbon buildup, or the VSV that controls it isnt working/broken. if you take off the 6 screws and the top plate, you can look right in at flap.

yeah, thats a sw20 dash. when red is availabe i might be interested.

from the rear end, then the center bearing and it will slide on the ground when you pull it back, though i work on mill felt so it dont get beat up.

its a 2 piece driveshaft, so has a center support bearing that has to be removed to, once you unblot it from the diff. but i leave the yoke in the tail housing. and dont forget to undue the spedo cable! that will slow you down alot!

easy way is bribe a freind with a case of beer :D:D lol. i leave the driveshaft in the tranny, and using a floor jack slide it back the bit i need to access the clutch, save draining the fluid.

if the nut is jb welded or epoxied to the trans, it shouldnt turn anymore. or i just never bothered re-installing the top bolt. i just ran mine with the bottom only. ghetto but it held.

yes coiloves will raise the car if you want them to.

cold start circut not shutting off?

for the starter nut, one its out. jb weld or epoxy the nut to the tranny. getting it off is easy, putting it back on it a whole nother story.

http://forum.aempower.com/forum/index.php?topic=27877.0 http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/pix/ls2coil.gif

yep that works fine. though unplug the coil packs while doing this,

i dont know for the 1jz, but what were looking for is how even it is, as that will show if it did any damage. also id pull your intercooler off and drain it, as it probably has water in it

yes the rubber is stock, the shifter is a 2 piece design, why its there i dont know, unless its to stop heat transfer and maybe some transmission vibrations.

its a hack job. shifter is stock, they have cut the top off and welded on a diff bolt for a different knob as for loose, the shifter bushing in the tranny is prob worn out. its a cheap fix.

there is a relay for the blower in the kick panel fuse panel i think. its on the passenger side for the MA70s, so maybe it will be on the passenger side of your car