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How much did they charge and what did they do? I was lucky, I happened to have a really good machine shop right by where I lived. -AM3

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=84 That's the TSRM way, but what I just had my machine shop install them when I had the block bored and decked. -AM3

The label under the hood should have a vacuum diagram as well, assuming the hood hasn't been replaced from an accident or is a CF hood. -AM3

I have the rarest part of all: 7M without a BHG. -AM3

This has been a brutal winter for Supras. -AM3

Not totally true. I got my block off Ebay. But beyond that, I wouldn't trust it, except in a very rare case. Stick to Vendors and shops with a good reputation. -AM3

If you part out I'm looking for a front lip, LMK. :biglaugh: On a more serious note, at least you are ok, and its time to start learning how to work on cars. Having mechanical abilities is the only way owning these cars is cost effective. I agree with the other guys, don't part it out, fix...

The engine bay is tight as hell on them. There's places even my arms can't fit, lol. -AM3

I've seen them on a Mk IV, and they actually do look really nice. It takes a lot of time and money to get that result, money I would rather spend elsewhere. But there are cars besides Lambos that can pull of Lambo doors. Having said that, the Mk III is not one of those cars. -AM3

But that's why he has a Targa. lol And it all depends on how nicely they are installed. I have seen really bad Lambo doors done cheap. I have seen ones that looked like they came from the factory, and the labor on those was more than the car. -AM3

I spent that much on parts, but I also needed to get a block. Machine shop costs were another $600, and took about 2 months. I didn't need to get the head machined, and I did the assembly work. And overall, I'm really happy with it. The shop I used was Auto Machine in St. Charles IL, and I would...

Personally, I wouldn't lose any sleep over using that crank as is. However, if you really want to do things 100% right, sending it to the machine shop and getting new bearings is the only way to go. I forgot about the keyway. You will want to get that fixed. -AM3

EDIT: SM only was showing me the first page until I posted. It sounds like you have a BHG. -AM3

Basically, if you put a Lexus AFM on, you will be getting more air. Ergo, you need more fuel. Otherwise, you go lean, go boom. No amount of ARP head studs and MHGs can change that fact. -AM3

If you have the money, talk to a machinist and see if they can fix the gouge. If the head can be saved, and you're willing to put the money into it, its still a good deal considering all it has done. But if you don't have the time/money to mess around with it, I would send it back. -AM3

I would use an airhammer on the elbow if you have access to one. -AM3

I know, I have all those parts sitting on my desk at home. If you raise fuel cut, you should increase your fuel supply, otherwise, you could go lean, go boom. I gave him the short version and told him he could search, because, hell, we can't just spoon feed it to him, that's too easy. -AM3

Maybe, maybe not. I have seen guys claim to run almost 12 PSI on stock injectors, although I do question the accuracy of their gauges. My car hits fuel cut at about 10 PSI, but my point is, no 2 cars are exactly alike. My suggestion to you is either turn down the boost, or go with a bigger fuel...

I know, its amazing what a pair of boobs can get you in this world... -AM3

IJ, you brighten my days. -AM3