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Make sure the flanges are flat and the bolts are tight. If the flanges are warped in the middle, you'll never get a gasket to seal. It's better to have a flange that's warped like this )| instead of this (|. The bolts will pull the first one together, not the second.

Only reason you'd need to burp it with jacking it up is if you've got the gurgling in the heater core from air bubbles trapped.

It is native if he's got the round engine mounts. It'll bolt right in, and the engine harness simply needs to be extended to fit into the stock location. Some people just use a hole saw on the driver side and mount it there. R154 drive-shaft is needed if he's a W58. There's a little...

like I said, larger group to sell too.

Why is this a poll? Is there water circulating inside the heater core? Grab both of the water lines to make sure fluid is moving when the engine is warm. The difficult hot restart could be you've got a VSV underneath the intake manifold that might of come loose. What's the -hg at idle? Also...

This works if you have one in hand, I believe someone here tried that and got 23mm shims instead of 25mm. Don't quote me on the numbers, they're used as an example and probably aren't the correct sizes.

Measure the shim thickness that you need then add .001-.002 to that thickness. So if you need a shim that is .010 thick just order a shim that is .012 thick. I would only replace the shims that are out of spec, you can replace them all as they aren't that expensive but it's more time consuming.

I can't apply first hand experience as I haven't adjusted my shims yet. I'm going shimless buckets so my process might be a little different. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?123829-7mgte-valve-shim-specs/page2

Why can't you take the cams out? If you've gone far enough to take the valve covers off, the cams are just a few more bolts away. Loosen the timing belt and remove the cam caps according to the TSRM. I've heard that you need to add .001+ to the shim thickness as the new shim will seat in the...

Why not offer it? If you do this, it'll apply to a larger group. Instead of needing a EMS so you can run that ffim, make it so it will run with a stock ECU as well, such as the ISCV, CSI and stock TB and TPS. Applying to a larger group of people will potentially get more sales.

Pay closer attention to the engine fluids next time.

safc is pretty simple but also leaves a lot of stuff on the table. an emanage can control fuel and timing but I wouldn't advise playing with timing unless you know what to do.

vacuum and signal ports need to be usable. the plenum needs to also have the proper volume and shape for a good flow. iscv and csi need to be available along with using the stock tps or q45 tb and tps.

is the clutch fan working? are the fins in the radiator damaged or blocked? are you getting any kinked hoses under pressure?

factory cooling system is more than adequate for the 7mgte from a n/a. a clean, stock radiator with an intact fan shroud and the 10 blade fan cools better than most aftermarket setups.

the car will run fine if everything is in working condition. no need for tuning but there's always room for it.

Isn't there another master cylinder that we can use that is bigger? It's off a land cruiser or something, I can't quite remember but I do remember seeing it. I'll see if I can dig it up. I believe it was off a 4runner.

http://www.weirperformance.com/maxgriplsdkits.html http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?430339-How-To-A-few-tricks-to-beef-up-the-rearend-carrier I'm doing the #1 kit on the supra and crush sleeve eliminator.

Like stated, it applies more force to keep a one wheel from happening when a stickier tire is put on.

Replace steering rack, replace steering rack bushings, replace tie rod ends, replace lower ball joints, install new suspension on front and rear, install new poly subframe bushings, reshim my diff, install a twin plate clutch and finish my t4 setup.