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very very nice

holy s*** that sux!!!! Is he going to fix it? It's his fault for being a mechanic and mis-diagnosing the problem. That and HE was the one mashing on the pedal. Sorry to hear about your loss. Good luck!

no glue. They sit in a 'bucket' under the cam. There are several ways to get them out, special tools, removing the cam, or just careful use of a few screwdrivers or whatever tools you can get your hands on that work. I borrowed a tool...special tool...special tool SUCKED but it worked.

I have the same problem with my head ticking, and I have all the studs on the exaust maifold helicoiled. I checked my shims and a ton of them are out of spec, I replaced some of them with ones I have from my spare head so it still ticks, but I doubt it's my exaust maifold.

sounds amazing. hows about topping off the thread with a quick list of mods?

If you pull the inspection plates off and shine a light in there while having somebody press the clutch you should be able to see the 'forks' (correct term?) on the pressure plate moving towards the rear of the car. hmmmm....sounds odd to me

mine was being jerky too because I had it rotated too far counter-clockwise...so I got the ohm meter out and slowly moved it, and checked the resistance, moved it (clockwise) and checked the resistance, when i finally checked and the resistance had spiked, I backed it off just a LITTLE bit and...

86.5-89.5 are yellow, 89.5-92 are grey

So...everything on the car was working fine until i took it to the track (best time of 15.4.....guess everything wasn't working fine). I thought I blew an intercooler hose. I already blew the throttle body coupler once so I replaced that and set my tps and checked the ISC. took it for a test...

I set mine a few days ago (yeah...realllly easy to hold the needles on the connectors of the tps and try rotating it REALLY slowly while watching the gauge...and then trying not to move it when you tighten the screws) and all I found was that while turning it clockwise the numbers would rise and...

because it's not a 'direct swap'

I've got it and it's amazing.

woo hoo same problem! haha...I checked my isc and tps...they're bad but I don't feel like doing anything about it (exremely busy breaking my car)

double check the freeplay on the pedal. Mine was doing that last week and I adjusted the master cylinder pushrod where it attaches to the pedal to make sure there was NO pressure plate feet at the top of the pedal stroke. you want to be able to push the pedal like half an inch before you get any...

so you're trying to say to just take the pp to a local shop and have them rebuild it? I know my rps plate is the exact same plate as the stock one I pulled off...I can't find ANY differences, and the disk looked exactly the same too. Anyway, I picked up a good brand aftermarket slave cylinder...

So...I've got 2000 miles on my 89 turbo 5spd (engine and trans from an 87) and I put an rps street/sport clutch in it that's supposed to hold 340ft-lbs of torque. I've got a k&n intake and a bic ddp wastegate shimmed with 2 washers on each bolt. For some reason the clutch doesn't grab anymore. I...

mine just started doing that and it's really bugging me. RPS full face street/sport clutch 340ft-lb capacity and it grabs in the last inch of letting it out. It's really bugging me. I already re-adjusted the freeplay and height and it's still being stupid...me no likey.

boost leak? intercooler piping may be something else you'll want to check

I think you crossed the wrong wires...I did a 5spd swap in my 89 (turbo auto->5spd) and the 5spd was from an 87 but it didn't do any smoking or anything. The only downside is the overdrive light flashes...so I've gotta pull the bulb out.

ok. So..I manged to fix my problem and it sounds like it could be yours. I was getting a REALLY HORRIBLE boost leak in the coupler to the throttle body. The bottom of it was torn all the way across. I'm assuming (and correct me if I'm wrong) that due to the fact that I was losing metered air...