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Hmmm... I think the early model 700r4's are what you'll be looking for. I believe you can get a vacuum operated switch for the early electronic ones(with the one 4 prong connector back on the driver's side). The trick will be hooking up a kickdown cable, as I think the A340e doesn't use one...

So where would be a good place to triangulate back to? I've been thinking about this myself, as I don't see any available that work correctly.

Meh, its not good, but passable. There will be a run here and there, but that's pretty typical. Unfortunately, silver is about as bad as black at showing every little imperfection, so make sure you get it smooth. When you pick it up, check it before you leave, and they'll fix the major flaws...

Might slip back under there and take a look at the ear end. Might need some oil there to ;)

CRE: It was the GE plenum. It was being discussed over on SF. I'll have to find the link again. The ACIS system on it is supposed to be identical to ours, but a bigger valve or some such. Edit...

Coolant/water still in the exhaust and cat. It'll burn out, but takes a while.

Did you have your head and block milled? The stumble is a good sign of the timing belt being out of time one way or another. When you get the cover, set the crank mark where it goes on the bottom cover, with the cams pointed up where you set them, before removing the belt and cam gears. Once...

lol for JJ. Good point Adjuster. I use r134a in mine, and it does ok in the summer here in East Texas, but it won't freeze you out. Now my friends '07 Chevy truck, I have to carry a jacket year round.

Meh, work on one of the old Mercedes diesels some time. Everything is vacuum operated, including door locks and part of the ignition switch circuit. That'll make you tear your hair out, and run around in a hysterical fit. Plastic vacuum tubes in the doors, door sills, all through the dash...

I never take the A.C. compressor or p.s. pump out of any vehicle for a motor swap. Refilling the A/C requires conversion to r134a in this car. Clean out all the old oil, install new fittings, vacuum and leak tests, fill with new retrofit oil, and freon. PITA. R12 is almost as expensive as...

If you have access to a smoke machine, smoke the vacuum system. Sounds like it might have a leak somewhere. As for the milky sludge in the pcv, could be condensation. I'd worry about it if its in the oil fill cap as well, though. Ticking noise could be injectors or valve lash. "Normal"...

Check your distributor timing. It should be pointed at #1 wire with the cam and crank marks aligned at the timing marks. Check the firing order. Should be 1-5-3-6-2-4 clockwise. This should help: Edit: And what Grim said

The cover may be a little pinched by the motor and bell housing. Sometimes they're a pain to get out. iirc, there is a rubber gasket on top of it. It might be hanging up on the oil pan or something. So the fluid smells more like gear oil? It will have a thicker consistency than motor oil...

I edited my last post(hit the reply button to soon), so you might read it again... No, it shouldn't need to be running for the retainer to leak. Could be a really slow leak, though, so it might take a while. The car does need to be running for the rear main to leak most of the time. It could...

If its coming from the square boot on the trans., it's possible that the trans. is leaking in the bell housing. Maybe the front bearing retainer gasket. http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=MT&P=9 On the driver's side, about half way up the trans. is a fill plug...

Looks more like oil leaking down from the back of the valve covers, and running down the side of the transmission.

I've run into the region issue before. Believe Win. Media player will play them.

^^???? Seriously? I haven't seen that, or the NOS to the valve cover Honduh. Still trying to figure that one out...

My favorite teacher once said, "Never believe anything I tell you is true. Go do your own research, and find results that are based on fact." It would be hard to argue the fact that it works exactly like its supposed to without testing it, and getting actual, real world results. I already...

I occasionally get a chance to drive a 90 n/a auto, compared to my 87 n/a 5 spd. So much smoother, and faster, shift between gears. I could just be getting lazy in my(compared to a lot of people here) old age. Won't have to put up with the pita clutch problems I see with the R154 when I...