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Uh, reduction liberates O2. And the supposed lack of it must be why his HC is so low...

Because he doesn't live in Belgium and where he lives it does a lot more than take up space.

You've never given it much thought? I find that very hard to believe :icon_razz

Some solenoids, including automotive injectors, employ a counter emf/flyback diode for clamping. They're always marked or the wiring color indicates polarization. Even if hooked up backwards they'll still work. Not exactly good for the diode though. Anyway, that's not the case here.

O2 sensor is working fine. Forget about it. Check EGR per TSRM.

1) A stock GTE uses Toyota's Type A fuel system. That means 36 psi, a value that falls between the 33-40 psi specified in the TSRM. That pressure is as good a place as any to start. 2) IDL-E2 must be low resistance for the idle speed system to work. Put another way it must be low volts...

Don't buy one that has been owned by anybody under 30...

They don't. And I'd seriously be asking for my tuition back...

Being hit with the ball stings don't it? :icon_razz

^ I know what usually causes that...

"I'll be back"

Turn it on?

Tweak that a little but well said. It ain't that hard at all...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pull-up_resistor Nothing more than that. Quite common with digital inputs on all sorts of electronics, not just cars.

X2. Least he fessed up. Gotta give him credit for that :) OP: Now you know why I made a gasket. Used the side of a beer carton iirc. Never leaked again...

It is not. In stock form it easily exceeds the NHTSA cooling requirements all autos must meet to be sold in the US. In over two decades of driving mine in some very adverse conditions it never overheated. Not once. Any car in stock form that does has something wrong with it. That said it's...

O ring goes in the groove on the left in the third illustration down: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=23 As for the gasket there isn't a factory one. If one is made be sure it doesn't result in bending loads on the bracket.

Voltmeter or ECU safe test light on T. Because the test input is pulled high when inactive they'll be 5 volts on it and by referencing that measurement to E1 the integrity of both lines is verified with one step. Work smarter, not harder...

You are correct about compression but wrong about the groove. That said I always used a gasket on my CPS in addition to the O ring because, at least in this application, gaskets have a much longer service life. Lastly, your O ring has either been stretched or is the wrong size.

He'd have to gain access to the ECU for that. If you think about it there's a much easier method that would verify both T and E1 in a single step from the diag block only.