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Yes, I would think you'd want the JDM tb if you're going without egr. Ideally, you would also want the JDM ecu.

Looks like a 7M intake manifold, but probably JDM, since the throttle body lacks the pcv tube, and the egr port is blocked off. The uninstalled throttle body is a standard USDM unit.

Rest up! And good luck with the project.

I just filled with something easier. :)

Looks amazing. I shudder to think how much money this project will end up being, since you're using so many oem parts. Not that it matters. :)

Well then, I would take off the intake valve cover, and specifically check the valve shim clearances on #1 and 6. Since you're at TDC, this would mean that #1 intake valves have closed for the beginning of the combustion event, and I'm pretty sure that #6 intakes would be just about to open for...

TDC at the crank can be wrong. After so many years and heat cycles, the crank pulleys are known to have the outer ring separate from the rubber isolator, causing it to slip back a bit, and give a misleading TDC indication. Verify true TDC by the #1 piston height. Remove the spark plug and insert...

Oops- I forgot to mention: I ended up replacing my 12 year old CSF aluminum rad, because it developed a couple of very slow leaks. Also, I bought new inner and outer tie rods, since they were rusted together and couldn't be adjusted. Also, new rack boots because the old ones were torn, And...

Any progress on finding the leak?

So...what's the latest? I finally replaced my original oem pressure plate for a slightly stronger one, so hopefully, no more slipping clutch, and I can add some boost. I won't do that however, until I install my boost gauge, so that I know what I'm running. I'm just waiting on a harness plug for...

So, a small update, I do have the car running now on the DET3, although there are still a few issues to correct; My rpm reads 175 at 900rpm, telling me that my ignition configuration is incorrect. And my GM iat is showing -40 degrees celcius. Otherwise, the only additional connections I need to...

If you hear the actual starter relay clicking, then that means the signal is successfully going from the key to the relay, and triggering the coil side of it. The next step is to see if there is power on the other pin of the relay(high amperage input). If there is, then the relay may be bad.

Well, ok then.... Post up some pics of your progress when you get a chance.

Also, I finally got around to installing the reference line for the DET3. You can see it here, just above the harness grommet:

Oops. I just realized that I never showed an installed pic:

Stuck IACV

Got the fitting tig'd on today. Well, that's not exactly true. The factory tube was too fragile, and the guy couldn't tig the fat fitting on without melting it. So instead, he welded it onto a tube section with thicker walls. Then I chiseled off the bracket and mig'd it on at home. I was even...

Yup. I have measured the 'thickness' of both the NA and turbo fans. The na is a shallower blade, and does not extend as far forward into the radiator. I had a turbo fan hit the shroud and break apart, due to the increased thickness of the Fluidyne radiator.

So, I'm slowly chipping away at the DET3 wiring. The manual is a bit less than informative, but I'm slowly getting everything connected. All that's left at this point, is wiring in launch control, map switching control, and running the reference line for the built in map sensor. This last one...

One issue I've had ever since I swapped the turbo and injectors... The bypass valve never seems to open any more. I just get the rapid stutter of backpressure against the compressor wheel. So, I upgraded my bypass valve yesterday, with the only oem-looking, plug&play performance bypass valve I...