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That thread is very interesting, maybe should be put in reference section? The links to not2fast don't work though :<.

One of the best purchases I ever made.

It's been done quite a few times. Check out supracharged.com

Make sure you look at the TSRM diagram correctly. The picture drawn shows the connector opposite as it appears on the car. The pins you need are actually the bottom 2. It should flip from continuity to no continuity (0 to OL), not change an ohm value.

I remeber a buddy of mine's old CRX had a motorcyle exhaust. Actually looked like it should have been there.

Yeah I just got my wideband installed a few days ago and I have the same thing . I thought I developed a leak or something. Either way I read way richer than I did on dyno.

Hehe I remeber one of my friends driving home from an inspection with a big "F" on his windshield because he was missing something stupid like wipers. Got a "second opinion" and passed without a problem. This may have been in MA though.

What the hell? Project cop car?

I too run 16psi on stock hg. As Jay says research is key, don't just slap parts on without knowing how/why they work. Though I agree 10psi on a motor you know nothing about can't be good. Need to check integrity of motor (compression test, etc.) and do basic maintenance first. After all...

I hadn't ordered anything through him in a couple years and now I need some parts. I was wondering if he still worked there, guess that's a yes :D.

I did that after I threw a rod in my NA supra. Drove it about 30 miles home and it ate about 1.5 gallons of oil. Made hella noise but still ran/idled. I sold the car later and the guy who took apart the motor said that one rod had a spun bearing and another had actually broken in half. :D

I got too used to driving my beater that wobbles over 65. So I stay under 70 usually out of habit.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&Page=103 Put the feeler gauge in between the stop screw and the arm. Then put your meter between the E2 and IDL contact (it will be the lower 2 pins, backwards from TSRM picture). Just loosen the TPS and turn it until the...

If you having issues idling it can very well just be the IDL contact not the TPS wiper. I would adjust it to spec and see if anything improves before completely removing it. I re-adjusted the IDL contact per TSRM spec and found out that my base timing had been off by about 5degrees. That will...

EDIT: Most people do it the way hottscenney describes, but as he says there will be little to no vaccum during some situations. The "correct way" is to route it like stock, but some people fear it working like a boost leak under high boost situations. I would only worry about it if you have...

You can always set up a vaccum pump to pull out any PCV fumes. Or use exhaust scavenging (if you hate the environment.)

It's been fine for over a year so far. The blue and red run were both on same boost. I realize it looks like we added a couple psi and it leaned out the mixture but that's not the case. We leaned it out purposely (shooting for 12.7 iirc) and netted some power (and if you look we took out the...

Mines routed down behind the driver side foglight, I have gravity and cool environment working for me. And it catches alot of condensation.

Lexus+440s@14psi Of course if I want to break 400hp without going to 100% duty cycle I'll need 550s.

I was more worried about debris finding its way into my turbo. This was a chance I was willing to take, as it is not my daily driver and much time but not much money was invested. I flushed the oil out 3 times in the first 500 miles. Now I have a few thousand miles (including dyno pulls and...