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Yes, steel throughout would not be a problem, but as i stated before Aluminum between the turbo and IC would be best. Best of the best would be aluminum turbo to IC and stainless from IC to TB.

Sorry, didn't realize that it was going into and MKII and not an MKIII. For the aluminum, check out Alro Metals outlet over on 49th st. in largo. Thats where I buy al my material, they seem to have the best prices.

You have to remember that your buddy's firebird has a hell of a lot more torque down low then any 7m turbo or not.

After the IC, steel or SS is actually better then aluminum because of its slower thermal conductivity rate. Once cooled by the IC, (unless you running like 25psi or more) the charge air is actually 9 times out of 10 going to be colded then the engine bay air so if using aluminum, the hotter...

I use a regular stand up Bandsaw but I have several jigs (wooden blocks with verious commenly used pipe sizes and radius's cut in to them to hold the pipe correctly) that I can attach to a aluminum plate the is guided by the table and allows me to get the angle that I want and ensures an exact...

Do you have any of the bolts handy and if so, can you get me a length meausment from one, bolt length, not including the head? Thanks in advance

Wait, just realized that you'll are talking about ARP bolts not studs

Did ARP recently change them. Mine are 14mm 12points

Maybe this will help.

On top of what Dr. J stated about the pistons, does the block have the normal turbo oil supply and return ports functioning as per stock or does it look as though they were hooked up differently?

yeah, thats what I was planing on doing the next time around. I would have gotton them in 10's but when I originally bought them, 5Zigen didn't make them in 10's PM me if you are serious about that with a price and I might be up for it.

Agreed: couldn't have said it better myself. on top of that, if you are all gun-ho about buying a new one just for the hell of it or yours did actually test out bad, get one from Toyota. I have seen to many problems with aftermarket sends and not being calibrated correctly.

Yes they did as a matter of fact. So light and gracefully at that but they seamed to have taken a litte hiatus to the ft walton area. LOL..... The part that sucks is that I am just going to have to buy another set of those cause I found out that they dont have the 18's in the offset that I...

well if you havent done it yet, it cant hurt to do a compression test, But unless you have probably atleast 3 or more dead cylinder, then thats not your problem. The part that I am lost on is the hiddious noise that you spoke about right before the engine died. I murdered two pistons once...

The car should start without the upper IC pipe. It won't drive cause of the lack of AFM signal, but it should start. Give me a call if and when you get a chance, it would probably be easier to explain stuff over the phone and if you want, I dont have a problem taking a ride out there to give...

1st pic: No where, they are not stock. Someone might have been using them to feed power to the fuel pump for some reason. 2nd pic: IIRC is soppost to go to the bypass valve. 3rd pic: if you have circled what I think that you are circling, then its the vaccum feed for the cruise control...

What do you mean that the starter is turning but not the engine? do you mean that when you crank it, the starter turns but the crank does not spin? One other thing, did you change the oil after doing the HG job?

10psi should get you well past that if there are other mods done (like exhaust, DP, intake, ect....).

No, dont use sealer on it. it is a dry seal type. if using a sealent, you risk it getting in the oil galley and it can destroy a bearing.

Yeah, its the oil pressure sensor. try backing it out about a half a turn then go back in about 3/4 turn or maybe a tad bit more. It uses a 14mm wrench and the hex is on it inside between the canister and the threads. Dont try to tighten it like a bolt cause its a tapered pipe thread (1/8 BSP to...