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Lower ball joints replacement is basic hand tools and ~$100 in parts. The control arms very likely are different sizes left to right. However it should not be much. Mass production processes are not perfect but they should DEFINITLY be less than say a 1/4" difference in length.

That offset is almost definitly too deep. I have a set of 17x9.0 +36mm offset wheels up front. They rub on the inside at full lock just barely. You can space the wheels out. Space them right and they will be just slightly past the fenders and would like nice and flush with say a 255 on...

I would just like to add my thoughts. There are differences between the LSDs. What about the 1JZ's with TorSens. I beleive the TorSen came in two ratios. 3.8ish and 4.1ish. Also, so many people just think of a differential as either open or LSD. That is WAY too general a term "LSD"...

Back the car onto ramps? Rear subframe? Rear control arms? Frame rails just before rear subframe? You can use the pinch weld if the person who welded them had any idea what they were doing.

I would put it in for performance reasons... Basically, the thermostat does not control your temp. It is a standard for how much coolant flow is needed to make the engine run at the specified temp. The 170* will open sooner and therefore more overall giving you better coolant flow to the...

What exactly are you doing as far as building up your car goes? Obviously it is atleast and engine R&R...

I doubt your guage would read much if any oil pressure by cranking it with the starter. Make sure you have all of yor timing issues fixed and try to start it. If it starts clunking for more than a second or two shut it down.

The pump could very likely be causing the problem. Hydraulic pumps tend to cavitate and make noise when low on oil. However they will also sometimes aerate and make noise even with full oil level. One question though, how cold is is where you are? Hydraulic systems work like ass when they...

Personally I would make my own coilover setup using an A1 catalog. I would also lower the frame perch of my front upper control arms... But for more practicality. I have the Eibach/Bilstein setup and I like them. I also have ST sway bars. It is really a nice combination especially with...

By mounts being done, I mean this weekend. I am a little drunk.

My cousin broke 3400 with A/C removed and a stripped rear interior. That means 1/4+ tank and a heavier than stock IC, etc.

No time frame this point. I hope to get it done this summer. The engine mounts will be done, pending on my guy at TPiS helping me out with the welding.

Yes, they are. However I purchased and are using about half of the mounts off ebay. Basically, the mounts I am using are older SBC style. Once you see the pics you should be able to make some easily based on mine.

In a few days I expect I will have the motor mounts completed. I will definitly share pics and specs in my build thread.

Let's put this in physical terms. Last summer cost me a windshield, a front lower ball joint, a steering rack, a set of tires, a set of wheels and a turbo.

Shit man, i'd love to use a fibre-glass body/floor. I can build a perfectly rigid tube-frame. I am an aspiring engineer with lots of resourses when it comes to the racing world. However I am trying to deal with my car as cheaply and as easily as possible. This design will not last, trust me...

I know that is still not as strong as the original peice if I do that. Though I do have access to rectangular/square tubing at my work with 1/8" wall for free... That should work right?

The pic is not deceiving, the rear of the transmission is tilted down. Once up at it's proper height it does not look like I cut more than I needed to. I was kinda thinking 10pt cage and subframe connectors but that would be expensive as I am not a good welder. So just weld some sheet steel...

Here are pics of the latest progress.

Here is a pic of what has been removed.