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I think 3/8" for the small hose and 5/8" for the large hose. Those atleast are the SAE equivalents.

I saw the red and blue posts.

I have replaced my steering rack. As far as I remember you HAVE to drop the front subframe a couple inches. While you are at it you should improve steering response over stock and get some poly rack bushings in there.

Actually I doubt all of the interior plastic paneling in the car including the dash weighs more than 50 pounds. The wiring is concentrated to the front half of the car and is surprisingly heavy when added together however

There was absolutely no rub problems with the +24mm offset wheels. They sat so perfect on my car. I will be getting another set some time.

I do not think I would ever sell my Supra. I also hate 4-dour cars...

Do what I did. Leave your horn out/remove it. I have never seen the true usefull of a horn on the road. I mean if someone cuts you off and you honk, what good did you do? If someone is paying attention at a stop light and it turns green, you can honk to get their attention but half the time...

I doubt I would ever use a fiberglass lip of front bumper. Way to fragile. The Factory cover will tend to flex instead of crack. Also, the only way the factory cover weighs 50 pounds is with the bumper support included and with all of the brackets. And the bumper support is the heaviest...

I have run both 17x9.0 with a +24mm offset and 17x9.0 with a +36mm offset. No rub issues with the +24mm offset, and I have Eibach springs. There was a small problem with the +36mm offset. When bringing the wheel to full lock it rubbed on the lower control arm a little. This was only when...

I am sorry, the Sanderson seem to be the same as the Hooker Headers...

I also have seen the mounting tabs break. However not on my car... The best idea would be to simply lengthen, and thick the tabs by welding in more metal if you get what I mean.

Thank you for the mention. Please do not forget a build similiar to mine. CJSupra is putting a 1UZ in his Supra. Here is his thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27374

I have driven many different MKIIIs with different suspension setups. Mine is my favorite. Also, two years ago I replace all of my sway bar links with new ones directly from Toyota. I got steel links in the rear and plastic up front... Also, watch out for the rear nuts on the links loosening...

Once I have the car running my first thought will be making my own long tube headers. Fact is Hooker makes a set of block hugger headers, and one other MKIII Supra guy putting an LM7 in his Supra has tried those and they do not seem to work.

Me being someone who worked on hydraulic machinery for a living for 2 years. I know that the stiffer you set the shocks at, the more abuse the seals take. I will not say how long a certain brand will last before it leaks, but I will just say what I said above.

I have the Bilstein/Eibach combo with these sway bars. I love the setup. Just make sure to adjust the rear sway bar stiff. The stiffer the rear the better... to a point.

5 pics max, here's the one left over.

Just thought I would post up some pics of the CTS-V manifolds in the car. Clearance is extremely tight with the steering shaft as you can see. Also the flange on the passenger side hits the frame rail. The clearance for piping coming off the manifolds will be enough as well. So after a...

That is a good idea CJ. I also am thinking about using some blue loc-tite and getting rid of the lock-washer. The pinch "flange" still will rub slightly but using your idea will make the need for grinding less.

I beleive what the shop was saying is that the intercooler cores and/or end tank welds tend to leak on the EBay intercoolers. Remember, whenever you are leaking boost the turbo is spinning faster just to attain the same pressure. However, the leak must have been small to have not noticed it...