To do that gasket you'll have to either fight with those hard lines from underneath or you're going to have to pull the turbo. They definitely weren't one of my highlight moments in doing my rebuild. I had the same problem though, replaced the gaskets, and everything was good.
I know it's been a while, but I ended up finally finding the problem. All my connections were good, turns out the new starter was faulty. Got another one under warranty and everything was good.
So for all you people out there with starting problems, don't go and do the "mod" to wire in that...
Cams pointed to TDC (timing marks on the cam and the cover aligned or the middle of the 3 holes pointed straight up) should give you the clearance you need. I have turbo cams, and I found there's a couple spots on the intake side that you might need to fiddle back and forth a bit to get the...
Stock internals should hold up fine at 400whp. If you are pulling everything apart though and you DO need to replace pieces, then you might as well start looking at upgraded parts. If you want piece of mind, you can put in some forged pistons and ARP hardware, but things are pretty solid down...
Cold weather does make it harder for a battery to deliver energy. That's why you'll have a CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) rating on the battery yet it will usually test much higher (my 770cca battery tested at 984cca a couple days ago while it was ~45F outside). CCA rating is supposed to be what it...
If you drive it nicely and all your emissions/sensor stuff is hooked up properly, I've been able to get 20 - 24mpg on a tank in my own car. If you drive the nuts off the car I've had as low gas mileage as 8mpg, but that's pretty much track driving. I've honestly never driven an auto supra, so...
The wire was to the knock sensor towards the rear of the engine. It was actually the sensor I broke, so I just got some new (used) sensors from a fellow Supramania member and we were back in business.
Didn't realize I have not finished up in this thread yet. The car's been running smooth...
This is the route that I would lean towards myself honestly. After taking the exhaust all off you should have enough room to get in without pulling the engine.
Wires to check:
Grounds - Make sure they are clean and tight
Battery Terminals - Same deal, make sure they're clean and tight
Positive supply to the starter - Again, clean and tight. Make sure the cable is attached to it's ends properly as well (bolted/soldered/crimped in properly)
If...
Factory spec on the pressure is >30psi @ 3000rpm, so from what I see you're fine. And like Supracentral already pointed out, your idle pressure is fine as well.
0.3kg/cm2 = 4.3psi
2.3kg/cm2 = 32.7psi
Calculator:
http://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm
I agree with the other two posts. Check your clutch fluid level ASAP, make sure you have fluid in your resevoir. Then bleed the system. Keep an eye on your fluid level after the system bleed, make sure you're not losing fluid. If you are losing fluid, gotta find where it's leaking from.
I've had this problem and it eventually went from a intermittent no start to an always no start. My starter ended up being the problem. It could be a bunch of other things as well though. The click you are hearing from the passenger side is the starter relay clicking over. You can test your...
If you've got a mechanic's stethescope (or long screwdriver/baseball bat/broomstick to ear), you should be able to hear very easily whether it's in the top end or bottom end even if you don't know what you're listening for. Put the stethescope (or whatever you're using) to different places on...
I'm sure I'll forget some stuff myself, but don't forget all your other misc gaskets and seals. If it's all apart, may as well replace them, especially ones that are hard to get to. Don't forget to budget money for machining work. Cylinder overbore, decking the block/head, polishing...
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