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It's all the same....just feels different depending on how hard you are accelerating and how fast you are going at the time. If you are unsure if it is in deed fuel cut or not, check you codes and look for code 34.

Same here....it's not uncommon once you get more air flow through the intake and less restriction after the turbo, especially at sea level and with cooler weather.

It's likely the blower motor resistor. It's bolted in to the duct in the passenger footwell. It's not uncommon for it to go, especially the low setting. You can either pick up a new one or try to repair it by soldering the coil(s) that have broken. Here's what it looks like out: And...

There still were some issues after the redesign IIRC. Bright side is if you do happen to have an issue they seem more than willing to work with you and warranty it.

Doesn't add lag, add's restriction through the intercooler itself (yielding lower boost pressure at the intake manifold). Unless you're running a big turbo pushing close to the CFM capacity of the intercooler it's generally not an issue. As Poodles already mentioned, pipe length is the issue...

When you pulled the fuel pump was the sock dirty/clogged at all? What about the in line fuel filter? I know they are designed to last a very long time, but it's still possible for them to get clogged.

I'd look at replacing the pipe rather than trying to tape it. It needs to be done regardless if it's already broken. I'd say you're probably right in that's what is causing the noise though. As posted higher it's fairly normal to see some on the lip of the turbo due to the PCV system setup...

What are your initial power goals? Our stock intercoolers aren't absolute garbage. If you're aiming to bring the car just under fuel cut with stock electronics/injectors, I honestly don't think it's worth it.

Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but I'll try and explain how it actually measures the air. The housing has a honeycomb structure at it's inlet that will straighten out most disturbance in the air so you have a clean air stream. Behind that is a post that will create a "vortex" of...

The electronics are interchangeable between the two. The housing is what you need to swap over. If you are already using known good and working electronics, typically better to swap that in to the new housing so you have one less thing to worry about if you are running in to issues after the...

If you do this expect to be going through a lot of brake shoes. The stock park brake system is exactly that.....a park brake system. They are not meant to be ripped to get the back end out in a corner. The shoe linings themselves are only something like 3/32" thick brand new.

I have yet to hear someone say anything bad about the Koyo radiator's performance. I don't know if it changes with the 2J swap but the Mishimoto has a history of getting in to fights with the 7M mechanical fan (even after being redesigned). Personally I'd say the Koyo is well worth the extra $72.

http://bit.ly/WK8V8K

Yes, that's exactly what I was thinking of. For some reason I was thinking that whole back housing part, not the cover, lol. I'm surprised it's not listed on the document as well....at least I can't find it.

m8x1.25mm I believe. Here's a wonderful chart o' fasteners :) http://www.turboninjas.com/mk3supra/others/Mk3%20Engine%20Fasteners.pdf I believe it's "Water elbow to head" on page 3 of the document.

...and he shall be forever remembered for the epicness of his failure :icon_razz. Honestly I'd use a dashmat until you could find a decent stock replacement, but that's just me.

Like everyone else is saying, these cars are a money pit. They have a tendancy to be very fickle if things aren't taken care of properly and to do everything properly takes a good chunk of change. How much would you anticipate spending on the swap and have for all the small things that go...

If that's the case I'd say there's something wrong with that dyno....

It's only a matter of time before the 2J destroys that transmission. There is a reason they didn't pair the two in a turbo model :S. Still a nice clean car though. Wheels aren't my first choice either, but that can be easily changed.

That's exactly what I was explaining. Boost creep is normally the wastegate not flowing enough. Port the wastegate, it flows more, you get less creep. This won't increase the boost, it will help minimize it creeping up under longer periods of heavy load.