~RTR annual Show n Shine @~
~Nibbles and Bites Food Festival~
Date: September 7th 2008
Event: RTR show n shine
Time: 9am roll in to 7pm (in and out anytime)
Location: Thompson community center - 5151 Granville Avenue, Richmond, B.C.
I plan to pop by around 1pm, and I think Dave...
I tried to remove the snap ring with a set of angled needle nose pliers, but it just keep slipping an popping back into place. Is there a proper tool to remove this huge snap ring? I gave up and reassembled everything. There is 1.5mm of shaft play (side to side, no in and out), and I can make...
Thanks! Here's some on-car pics:
In darker lighting, the tails turn up orange with my camera, and get blurry. It's not easy to get a good photo of these.
This was posted on SF and thought I would post it here for you guys. I might come to this one, as it may be the only big meet I am able to attend this year due to my work schedule.
Original Thread
http://pstoc.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3060
This was posted on SF and thought I would post it here for you guys. I might come to this one, as it may be the only big meet I am able to attend this year due to my work schedule.
Original Thread
http://pstoc.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3060
I couldn't find anything on eBay. Do you know who I could contact? It looks like the CT housing was probably modifed to fit the finned flanged garrett back plate, so I'm assuming I'll need a garrett seal. I suppose silicone would be a bad idea?
Is this O-ring easy to replace with the turbo in place? Just pop off the compressor housing? (This one is a CT-26 housing).
On the Dyno over a year ago, my A/F ratio was 10.5 at WOT (at the tailpipe). I installed a LC-1 wideband recently and it shows 11.5 across the range at WOT at the...
Lately my car has had trouble boosting above 14.5 psi and sometimes only goes up to 10, and I have my AVCR set to 16.5 psi. So I rigged up the DIY boost leak test kit, hoping to find a simple leak somewhere and there was a lot of air coming from the back of the compressor housing where it...
My set had a few wrinkles, but getting the leather super hot for a fair amount of time using a Tobi steamer smooths it out a bit. DONT use a heat gun. I tried that on a spare peice and it will damage it.
Note that you only get real leather where the seat touches your body, the rest is vinyl...
I tried everything, including super clean and was not able to get the paint off 100% without damaging the lens. The only thing that came close was paint stripper. But left on too long, it would melt the plastic, and it would always leave some silver paint behind when it dried.
Yes, perhaps the perfect install would be airtight enclosed fiberglass pods to the spec of the door speaker. But in my experience, mids that are airtight to the panel itself and use the door volume to resonate within, produce a nice full sound. I will be crossing my mids over steeply so nothing...
Good link. So these new spun metallic cats generally flow more than the ceramics? Magnaflow doesn't say this though, that I could find. Do they work as well? Any compromises? The body of that cat looks smaller than the ceramic ones, so less internal surface area might impede flow.
The ones under the intake are incredibly hard to reach. My engine is JDM without an EGR. I still have 2 little electronic modules under the intake with vacuum lines connected to them. Assuming one is the fuel up (which I don't need with my upgraded fuel system), what might the other be? Thanks...
I will upgrade to silicone hoses soon, but was I was wondering which vacuum lines I could eliminate, as they sometimes pop off under boost.
What are the VSV's under the intake manifold for? Part #'s 17650 and 25860?
Also, I was trying to see where hose 17344 goes, and it seems to loop back...
I'm running a magnaflow 3" high-flow catalytic converter, mainly to reduce the smell from my exhaust, and it works wonders for that. (chicks don't like smelling like gas/race car/exhaust after a cruise with the targa off )
My car made 393rwhp with a test pipe. I was just wondering how much...
Hard wire the CPS by cutting off the plug and soldering the wires. Solved my issue with it! And yes, you need to unbolt and reseal the drip rails to the targa, on top of the new seals.
I feel the same as you. My car looks amazing, but I've spent days on annoying shit that makes the car seem...
I was able to find the sensor, it was an inturrupt relay in line with the compressor so I easily bypassed it. Thanks for the advice! It gave me the courage to tear into this stupid thing :)
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