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Somewhat related: is anyone aware of any aftermarket racks (Quaife or similar) that have a faster steering ratio? Mine isn't in bad shape, but the Supra's slow steering can get pretty annoying when doing autocross and the like.

I think we'll need a little more information to make a decent recommendation. How important are factors like price, treadwear, and wet traction to you?

Fantastic thread! I'm really encouraged by all the restoration threads that have been popping up recently. :)

You're right. I do remember now that there was both a compound and a TW change. Silly Hankook making things hard to keep track of.

Don't worry, the new version is actually the exact same tire, it just has a different treadwear stamp on the side ;-)

Your statement is 100% correct. They are a tire pretty much designed with AutoX in mind, and I know a lot of people that use them. They have comparable (if not superior) grip levels to other 140-200 TW tires (ZIIs, R1Rs, G-Rivals, etc.), but they are also known for having relatively soft...

While I 100% agree on the "no tire over 200TW", I'm not sure Hankook RS3s are the best choice, they're known for having (comparatively) soft sidewalls. I would personally recommend Direzza ZIIs, Toyo R1Rs, or BFGoodrich G Rivals.

If lightness is your goal, you're in the wrong car. Something like an RX-7 is probably more appropriate. That being said, the cheapest/easiest two things that come to mind are removing the entire A/C system, and replacing the stock seats with some that are significantly lighter. Rotational...

I know that the TEMS actuators changed between Pre-89 and 89+, but IIRC they're plug-n-play between years. My guess would be that it changed part numbers in response to the change in springs/spring rates with 89+ cars. Regardless, I wouldn't for a second worry about purchasing and installing...

A couple notes about struts, to add a bit more clarity to things. Steve (toyotanos) is getting on my case about badmouthing Tokico Illumina IIs, and suggests that I might have just had bad examples on both the blue and red cars, I'm not convinced, but I suppose it's worth noting that both sets...

With a 7M, a 10W-30 is always a safe bet for oil. According to the owner's manual, 5W-30 is too thin for warm/hot climates. I had the exact problem you had when I chose my exhaust, and I ended up with the Tanabe. It's not my first choice for style, but it's really truly a higher quality unit...

7M-GTE. Weak links beyond 550hp. Your stock internals (headgasket excluded) are good for about 400hp. A stock headgasket is good for about 12hp. If you want 550hp from a 7M, you're going to need to fully build it. (Pistons, rods, etc.) A 2JZ-GTE should handle 550hp with stock internals no...

I love the fact that this thread is still titled "N/A DD Build". Looks clean! I'm a big fan of keeping A/C with a JZ swap, mine hasn't been charged yet but I'm hoping everything works out nicely this coming spring when I get it charged.

I'm noticing a pattern with you. You have 7 posts. They're almost all virtually identical. What's the deal?

In regards to the 7M: The headgaskets have a known problem. They are under-torqued from the factory, so blowing HGs (headgaksets) is very common. The easiest, simplest way to resolve the problem is to replace it with an OEM Toyota HG, and use ARP head studs instead of factory head bolts. Torque...

Nice thread! I hope more "restoration" style threads start popping up. These cars are old and people in search of "big power" are starting to move on. Hopefully SupraMania is going to transition to a smaller, more dedicated, more caring group of owners/members. A couple notes: 1. I'd highly...

A couple years ago I asked to get a set of keys made for my '88, and this exact thing happened. My keys were so awful, they weren't copy-able, so I pulled apart the door and got the code. They were able to cut them without issue.

Stuff like this always gets me when I see builds from outside the US. I always forget that other markets had more "base" model cars, with manual HVAC controls, no cruise, and other oddities. I'm so accustomed to every car being fully loaded!

How have I missed this build for so long? Your car looks awesome, and your fabrication skills are excellent. Builds like this are what SM is all about, we'll leave the janky stuff for the facebook groups. :D

I did this job about 2 years ago. Step 1: Examine the area. Step 2: Stick hand and attempt to touch each bolt to evaluate access. Step 3: Welp, fuck that noise! Step 4: Remove head. Step 5: ??? Step 6: Profit! I used a Toyota OEM gasket and no rtv/sealant/spray. Worked great. The bolts were...