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I need a new ps cooler and I can't freaking think straight right now and got a mad headache :icon_mad: I was about to go to kragen and have them ravage through cooler boxes until one comes up that fits into the firewall since they don't have the mk3 one, but then I realized maybe I could go...

This isn't kansas anymore?

Is distilled the same water that comes out of the Culligan water spout filter thing in the kitchen?

Yeah I did it with my dad once when I was a kid with a measuring tape and teamwork but imho a machine would be well worth it.

I'd just feel more comfortable replacing them since they're 20 yrs old. I'll have it checked tho as long as there's free align after I get bushings.. Can BigOTires/sister company Tire kingdom be trusted to do my alignment or are there better places?

My tires sit with unnatural neg camber and wear on the inside. I'm wondering which suspension bearings I need to replace to fix this? Would the Energy Suspenion control arm bushing package on HPF take car of this...

koni yellows + h&r springs??

Thanks Jdub, now I know what I'm in for when I decide to do a t stat sys. yeah I can see how shimming the filter relief is bad now... I'll just shim the pump relief then.

I have all my oil squirter bolts out and I blew compressed air through them to make sure they were not clogged. Is there a way to test is they are good? Also should I shim the oil filter bracket relief spring as I am with my pump?

Ya I got the F1 stage 3 light fly and it grips like a mfer but only had it for a month so can't give much feedback on it.

I say get projectors for headlights and jdm yellow fog lights. Keeps the sleeper touch:biglaugh:

I really, really want to do this but after realizing it's going to cost a couple hundred dollars I'll have to save it for a couple months down the road once I replaced other necessities/more money. Just to check with you to make sure I understand what I read: 1)NA filter stud 2)M12x1.25 bolt...

Fuck it, might as well give it a shot. Have to start somewhere. So what specific parts of the system would I need to replace to be considered "full flow"? One of those oil coolers on perma cool says it drops temp 95 deg. What temp would be too cold for the oil to work at peak efficiency?

Sorry I edited my last post but I believe 3000rpms was still round 18-25 psi iirc. I unfortunately don't have any experience to be able to trust myself in blueprinting anything on my engine quite yet. I assume the PN I posted then would account for the bolts/valves/springs/balls?

#15703-66010 squirter bolts, Springs while I'm at it? http://forums.celicasupra.com/showthread.php?t=26605 How much is a T Stat sys? I'm really, really low on cash. I was getting 0psi hot idle confirmed with a Napa Oil Pressure Tester. 18-25psi at 2500 rpm's...

I did a napa oil pressure test and it confirmed the same reading as my new oil pressure sender, so squirter bolts? I have no idea what they are or what they do but I'll look into em for sure.

Millimeters, sorry i thought it was obvious. Then what the hell was giving me such low oil pressure. Oil pumps in spec. Ordering a new spring, mesh filter assembly and shimming anyways.

Rod bearing clearances: 1).040 2).038 3).038 4).039 5).038 6).039 My theory is the shavings that were clogging the already pushed in mesh on my oil pump was the cause for the low oil pressure.

Ohhhhh Zumtizz just told me to do the same thing. Just throw a 5mm washer in there?

Well my oil pump was well in spec although the strainer mesh was bent very close to the oil intake pipe and interlaced with metal shavings in that area possibly from shavings I didn't pick up from back when I got my engine machined. Anyways that is my theory. Rods have side play although...