So are you that quick on the refresh button Ian? Or can you see my deleted posts? Because that last post was only up for 10 seconds and you feed it back to me.. LOL
:dunno:
I think he is refering to the timing belt/cam gear cover. At least I hope to hell he is..
I would remove mine also except I live on a gravel road and one bad tribal bounce with a rock under the hood will kill a timing belt.. Also it's a safty issue for me as I like my fingers..:)
Every one does not know this. This is your opinion.
The reason it is quieter is because it is no longer pulling as much air through the radiator. Don't waste your time trying to glue it back together with super glue.
I am no expert, but here is my take:
1) I would leave the timing set to 10 degrees and back the boost down to 13 and or adjust your maftpro to add more fuel at WOT.
2) I believe they are both set to 10 degrees, but once the jumper is removed it is up to what ecu you are using to determine...
The TSRM should be your new "bible"!!!
Study it. It is full of usefull info if you just take the time to make sure you understand what you are reading. ;)
If you remove the access door in the trunk on the right side you can pull the sending unit out of the tank without dropping the tank. Most likely the contacts are gummed up and need to be carefully cleaned.
Your welcome and thank you, but I don't belong at the top with those guys LOL, but I am happy to help when I can.
Read The Funny Manual is the clean version..
Porter, That is where the timing should be at after the jumper is removed!!!
Who?? LMAO...:)
I think you just jumper the diag block like your going to check codes, then install the light on #1 cyl. and set to 10 degrees by loosening the cps, adjusting it, and then re-tighten it. Now disconnect the light and remove the jumper. Page IG-20...
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