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So it looks like you leaned out at 4000rpm's and your power fell off about 5-6k rpm's depending on what line you look at? I take it anything below 13 is bad at WOT?

Ian, Would a flange leak also fool the o2 sensor and ecu to cause a rich condition? just wondering?

Yeah, I still have FC disabled (hks says raised) with FCD so I watch my boost gauge every second under hard pulls, It's only really bad for me in winter(under 30 degF). So don't be like me kids..There are better solutions. FCD's are evilbad and they all should be destroyed due to the maftpro...

So, if boost creep kills motors, then 2 WGs sounds like a good thing to me.. Might have to do some more research on it.... It makes just as much sense as running 2 BOVs to prevent surge...:)

I wonder if 2 WG has anything to do with preventing boost creep?

Thanks Craig. The way I see it, I treat everyone with respect until they prove to me they are not worthy of it :) Then it's just a matter of self control and some experience on forums like this, I learned not to take crap too seriously.. :) Also I delete bunches of my own posts before...

Hahaha, Great minds think a like. I did not know that, but I will let you have it this time... Bitch :) LOL Is "a like" two word, or is it "alike"? Hit refresh Allan...

That looks like fun except for the damage... Also,

I was not knocking it or you in any way! I was just asking 2 questions and saying I liked it..:) I am familiar with the prosses you decribed. I installed closed loop geothermal loop fields. All the connection are heated with 525 degree iron for 8 seconds and then you push the pieces...

I would take it off before it falls off and breaks something else. Then watch your gauges until you find another shroud or you could replace it and the fan clutch with an electric fan/shroud combo. :dunno:

1) Any plans to protect that pipe going into the intake. It may get warm there.. 2) What glue are you using? It looks like silicone.. Thanks, Looks nice Porter.

Fan shroud is designed to pull more air through the radiator and not really to focus air at the motor.. :) Plus, They save fingers..

I see your point. I was sort of phrasing them as a question because I am not 100% sure it would be helpful. lol... I fixed it for you. :)

:umno: No pot metal. They are cast aluminum I believe..

IHI won :) +1 I would have thought it would have still reved up, just slower? IDK...

I agree, I think it's just wedged in there.. lol Unless it's something related to the automatics?

Yes if your coasting or off throttle it will be in negative vacuum..

Mine is easily adjustable in cab but I usually have it set at 10psi with an upgraded ct.. Unless its raining and then I have a toggle valve switch that drops it down to 7.5lb actuator spring.

Mine settles to about 750-800 once warm with lights and AC/ heat off. It could be several different thing from timing to sensors. The trouble shoot in the TSRM may be helpful.